7D01A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

I have an Amana freeze and I followed the procedure in the video. Which is very good! However on the Amana Model there two slight differences in the procedure that I felt I needed to do. The first one is, the condenser fan bracket is attached to the Freezer chassis with 4 screws, not three. The removal and installation of the back screw by the fan is a bear. I removed the other three and it allowed me to rotate the fan slightly to get more access to the fourth and did same on installation by just starting the 4th screw and then tightening it later. The second issue was my new fan hit the housing when I spun the fan. When I looked at the old one. It had a phenolic washer, between the fan and motor which spaces the fan out about a washer thickness from the motor. When I tried to remove the old one it broke in four pieces due to age. So, I made my own with a washer that I super glued to the motor housing after carefully centering it on and clearing the motor shaft . Seemed to work with out any more noise or balance issues...Thanks, your delivery was blindly fast and video was great!

Pulled the fridge out, Took bottom panel off. Removed 3 screws holding motor. Unplugged connector, cut wires, attached old connector on new motor. put blade on new motor.installed in fridge, put cover back on.

just as video instructions said, very easy just following them ,part arrived in very short time and was exact fit completely satisfied, saved repair man service charges and wait time

Unscrewed the right control knob. Removed the left temperature control knob (there is no screw holding it), removed one screw to rear of small panel then pried open from the rear of the small panel, there are two plastic tabs in front of the small panel holding it in place. Unscrewed the failed control unit and replaced it with the new one. Replaced the small panel and screw then the left side control knob, making sure of the alignment in the "off" position as the knob has to be pressured into a clamp arrangement on the cold control thermostat. Re-screwed the right knob into place, as well.

pull unit away from the wall, and unplug it. remove the grill, and cardboard guard on the lower back of the unit. remove Three screws for the motor bracket. Remove the bracket legs from the old motor and assemble them to the new motor. take the fan blade off the old motor, place it on the new. Cut the wires at the old motor, strip the insulation back, use supplied wire nuts to connect the new motor. Reverse order to reassemble. Plug in unit to test function.

I knew the repair wasn't difficult. It was a matter of finding the replacement part. Luckily, I found the part via the internet on your site. Lucky for me, there was an installation video!! These videos are worth 1000 bucks!! Never have encountered a site with installation videos before. It gave me complete insight as to how the job was sequenced. I'm a very visual person, so videos are the perfect helper for me. With fewer and fewer affordable local service companies around to fix problems like mine, your site gave me the complete confidence to easily switch out the condensor fan. I completed the repair for about $63.00. Your site ROCKS! Keep up the repair videos because they are awesome and extremely helpful. I felt like your pricing was competitive for this item. Thanks again!!

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Mine was alittle different than the online instructions. 1. I removed the motor. 2. I took the fan off the old motor and cut the wires about 3" back from old motor. 3. Mounted the new fan on bracket and put the fan on the new motor. 4.connected wires that were cut and used wire nuts to connect. 5. Mounted bracket and motor/fan to unit and it works like its brand new. Thank you PartSelect!

opened box,read directions,took out bad motor,installed new one.PRESTO CHANGO way to go.

Pulled refridgerator forward away from the wall. Remove the cardboard back behind the appliance.I saw that the condenser fan motor was not working. Unplugged the appliance from the electrical outlet. Removed a 3 wire plug from the condenser fan motor. Remove 3 screws (with a nut driver) which held the condenser fan motor in place. Remove the condenser fan motor from the appliance. Looked up the part needed for repair using the appliance model number. Found which part was applicable for the appliance. Placed the order from Price Select on a Monday morning and recieved the part 2 days later on Wednesday via FedEx. The item shipped was a 2 wire condenser fan motor. Read the instructions that came with the part. Using wire cutters, cut the old 3 wire plug. The center wire is a green and yellow striped wire. Use the same colored wire that is also shipped in the box and has connectors on both ends. Cut one of the connectors off and use the wire strippers to remove plastic wire coating. Connect both ends from the appliance and the green and yellow wire that was shipped. Use a wire nut (also shipped in the box) to connect the wires. You will have 2 black wires left on the new condenser fan motor that need to be connected to the appliance. You should have an orange colored wire and another wire that is black with a white stripe. Connect one wire from the new fan motor to the orange wire and use a wire nut to attach both wires together. Use the other black wire from the new fan motor to the black/white striped wire from the appliance. Use the wire nut to attach both those wires. Place the new condenser fan motor back in the appliance using the screws that come with the motor. Attach the green and white wire with the connector on the end to one of the 3 screws that hold the motor in place and secure the screws. Use the electical tape to hold the wires all together and away from the fan motor. Plug the appliance into the outlet. You can see the condenser fan motor working properly. Note that when connecting the 2 black wires from the new condenser fan motor to the orange and the black/white wire from the appliance, for my appliance, it did not matter which wires were connected as the fan motor was a clockwise motor. Place the cardboard appliance backing, back on to the appliance and push the refridgerator back in place. Allow about 5-6 hours to get the freezer to between 0-5 degrees. The refidgerator should be between 34-38 degrees and will take a little longer to get to that projected temp.

Well I could what laid on the floor and replaced it but I didn't I emptied refrigerator laid it over change the motor then stood it back up actual work about three hours

Moved fridge out from wall, unplugged power cord. Laid on floor, removed 6 screws from cover. Removed one threaded bolt to allow assembly to slide out. Removed special nut, and took fan off. Removed 3 motor mounting bolts. Unscrewed 2 wire nuts, and untwisted wires. (option 1, no ground) Vacuumed entire area around motor. Used 3 bolts to mount motor to holder assembly, and special nut to install fan. Stripped wires back about 3/4 inch. Twisted two wires together CW, and installed new wire nuts. Slid motor assembly back into slot,(keep wires away from blades) and used one threaded bolt to secure assembly. Reinstalled cover plate with 6 screws. Plugged power cord in to test air flow (out through cover vents). Moved fridge back into place. The loud whirring noise did not stop for a day; then quiet!

The video of the repair is a helpful guide, but my refrigerator has the compressor very close to the condenser fan motor. With the compressor comes the copper tubing that is all in the way. I had to carefully bend them now and then to allow me to get my hands in position. The how to is easy, but the working with tools in cramped quarters was difficult. I think my Maytag side by side model makes for this job to be difficult, maybe yours may not be so bad. I took a couple of hours to complete. After the first hour, I covered the bare wires, and plugged the frig back in so it could do some cooling. I placed a small in front on the condenser to blow across it. Had a little break, then finished the job.

removed condenser fan -located behind refrigerator next to compressor, Not much clearance to work, there are 3 screws to remove from condensing motor,sounds easy but clearance is lacking to remove them ,(takes alot of PATIENCE). Then you have to remove the fan blades to be able to get clearance to remove motor!! I wouldn't reccommend trying this repair unless you are a pro.