75546 (ATICSER) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed white plastic trim and installed new latch / cam shaft

Simply used a flat head screwdriver to get the first few inches of the gasket out of its track and after that just pulled it by hand. New gasket slipped over the door, lined up the corner and pressed into in the track. Checked to see that it was snug all over and we were done. 5 minutes at the very most. Never would have noticed this. Took all the bins out of the freezer to give it a good cleaning and noticed the torn piece hanging. Our refrigerator runs much less often. Expect to see a difference in our electric bill!

The repair was easy peasy! Just fit it all in. Shopping here was just as easy. I'd delayed doing it for so long because I thought it'd be laborious but I found my appliance fast and the parts I needed quickly. The diagram you provided with part numbers helped a lot. Thanks for making it easy.

Tape off the light button so door alarm does not go off. Take off the clear light shield and remove the light bulbs. Be careful, bulbs may still be HOT!! With Phillips head screw driver unscrew the light plate assy. Drop it down in a comfortable position. Disconnect the connector, unscrew the thermal sensor and remove light assy. Install new light assy into light plate assy. There is no thermal senor in the new assy. Snap light plate assy back into place and install the two screws previously taken out. Install bulbs and clear cover. Remove tape from light door switches and you are done. Lights should go on and off when door buttons are pushed in and out.

Removed two drawers and drawer covers, glass shelf and door frame. Replaced in reverse order.

The part labeled as water tank was not pictured on web site, and when it arrived it was a large coil of plastic tubing wire-tied in an oval shape,not a blown p/e tank as original.The oval of tubing would not fit into the door compartment, because of the bulk of the actuating solenoid. No instructions were included. It was necessary to hacksaw the steel solenoid mounting bracket off the solenoid, then contort the solenoid into the compartment to get all parts inside the cover. new connectors had to be purchased, because the the tank/tubing coil was 1/4" od, while the original tank had 5/16"od connections.

replace piece

I replaced the entire plastic frame to fix the drawers. I'm frustrated that the design requires that I do this. Removed the metal bar that actually provides the support for the front of the frame and the drawers, etc. Three screws to remove and re-install. Easy. After removing the drawers, I just gently bent the drawer cover hinges to slide them out of the frame and tilted the frame out of the fridge. The glass just came out easily as it's not attached with any clips. I had to work to remove the clear plastic panels but a little careful persuasion and I was able to white supports out of the way and remove the panels. Then I removed the aforementioned bar and replaced the glass re-installed the whole assembly.

Simple replacement part.

I removed the old shelf and disassembled all the parts, removing glass shelf, bins, doors, etc. for use with the new shelf frame. Unfortunately, I hadn't been able to find all the roller assemblies from the original shelf and didn't realize that they were not considered part of the shelf frame. So, after reassembling all the pieces that I had, I still needed to order one additional roller assembly and specialty screw. Knowing this up front would have saved me a nice chunk of time and additional shipping charges. Otherwise, the repair was pretty straightforward.

Real Easy