72166462500 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

You Tube

your part and YouTube video (which just happened to be my microwave)
changed bottom microswitch...done and dusted in 20 minutes...your $14 part 3B73362F saved $350!!!

Removed micro bottom - 5 screws. One screw on the motor and a clip. Reversed the sequence, turned it on and watched it turn.

I looked up my problem on the internet and found a very helpful video. Microwave on video was different brand but the internals and methods were very much the same. The video made it simple and easy to fix. Found the replacement switch on the LG parts site and ordered. Two different switch types. One with red switch, the other green. Part was $7.28. Saved a bundle in service costs. Here is the repair video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=_AglBJoHgDs

Removed the cover then remove a screw that holds the control panel.Remove the control panel and peal the key pad from the control unit. Clean the panel (that takes the longest part of the repair).carefully stick the new pad on the control panel. It now works like new

It's easy , just pull the old one up and put the new one push it down

Take off cover then the bottom. Transformer is on the bottom plate and wires won't let it come all the way off, too many wires to pull off so will have to position the bottom plate so you can get to the motor. Remove 1 screw on motor and remove motor. Install new motor connect wires replace bottom plate, replace cover. All done (hope & pray it works ok) mine worked perfect. Hope this helps.

I UNPLUGGED the microwave and removed the cover, using a phillips and a Torx screwdriver for the machine screws. I set these screws aside, so as not to confuse them with the later encountered screws. I photographed the magnetron to assure proper placement of the 6 phillips machine screws involved in reassembly (marking the the locations on the old magnetron would do as well. I marked the old magnetron "old", to avoid later confusion. I removed the two screws holding the shields to the magnetron. I removed 3 of the 4 screws holding the magnetron to the microwave, leaving one of the top screws. I held the magnetron securely and removed the last screw, pulling out a the part of the magnetron that penetrated the microwave. I installed the new magnetron in reverse order. One problem I encountered was locating one of the six screws, which had been pulled into the old magnetron by magnetism.

Removed door from microwave and then popped the inside widow trim ring off. Removed 4 screws from the window bracket, replaced the latch with a new part and then assembled.

Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.

I had previously replaced the turntable motor, which helped for a small while. When the problem occurred again I examined the turntable assembly (small wheels which support the glass tray as it turns). The wheels were all flat on two sides. It may have been a defect from the beginning or a result of our placing food off-center because this model has a terrible cold spot in the middle of the microwave pattern................ The repair was as simple as taking out the glass tray, pulling the assembly (plastic arms with wheels on the end) off, dropping the new assembly on, and replacing the glass tray.............. This is surely worth a first look before replacing the turntable motor.

I removed the outer cover of the microwave and removed the bottom palte to access the small motor. i unplugged the old motor from teh wiring connector, removed (1) screw and motor came out. I reversed the proceedure with the new motor and it was finished.It was a piece of cake.

Unplug.Take off the external cowling from the back of the unit by removing the torx security screws. Tip: instead use a thin screwdriver blade to unscrew the torx screws, or knock out the center pins of these screws. Remove the bottom panel. The replacement motor is attached with one phillips screw, re-attach wires to motor - polarity doesn't matter. Re-assemble and you're finished.

unplug the unit then pull down , lot of screws are on top. open the cover . you could see the parts that need to replace on the right hand side (heavy side). disconnect wires then test the parts that need to replace by a tester to make sure that it's really broke .then unscrew part and replace .

Overall repair quite simple. Removed screws from the sides and rear of the microwave, then removed cover. Next, removed only the screws to separate the bottom cover. Removed the one screw in the AC Synchronous motor to remove the motor (had to use small screwdriver through a vent slot in the bottom to remove the screw). Unplugged and removed motor. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: on the back of my appliance were 4 torx screws with a tamperproof pin in the center. I used the rotary tool to grind out the pins so I could use a regular torx bit instead of ordering specialty bits.