71056 (ATICSE4) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Shut off water to refrigerator. 2. Removed bottom sheet metal cover (6 screws). 3. Removed leaking water inlet valve assembly from refrigerator (1 screw). 4. Remove water inlet tube (loosen nut) and tube back to refrigerator (pull from water valve after remove cotter pin washer). 5. Detach two electrical wire harnesses. 6. Install new water inlet valve assembly to refrigerator (1 screw). 7. Replace both water tubes to water inlet assembly. 8. Re-attach both wiring harnesses. 9. Turn water to refrigerator on. 10. Check for leaks. 11. Re-attach bottom sheet cover (6 screws).

Video makes it look easy. Kenmore refrigerator does not have "groove" along the right hand side of switch that allows for pushing down on release. Used a thin screwdriver to get under to push while holding switch edge with pliers. Kept slipping. Tape sides to avoid scratching inside of refrigerator.

I pulled the gasket off and installed the new one. It was very easy. All I had to do was to push the new gasket in place in the grooves in the door. The gasket I received was identical to the one I replaced.

Unscered 2 screws, unplug electrical connection under the screws, slide her flap into grooves, realign screw holes , and rescrew in. Done.

So easy I couldn't believe I'd done it so quickly. Two minutes from start to finish. Pull the old one off and press the new one in.

Had to buy the entire door mullion because the spring broke, wasn't happy. Got the new part very quickly and it was a new replacement part number. Somewhat tentative. Took it out of the box and looked it over. No spring! Groan! Thought I got the wrong part. Flipped the bottom hinge and it snapped open, no need for a spring! Two screws, disconnect the wire harness, throw away the old, get new, connect the wire harness, connect hinges, put in two screws! Super easy. Watch the video for some pointers along the way.

Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!

Found the broken spring; matched it with parts diagram. Googled for sources via part number. Selected this site because it had best deal - price, availability, shipping. Part arrived as predicted; installed it in 2 minutes. Job done. Door now works.

Used putty knife to pry out the old gasket, pressed new one in place. Very easy, done quickly. About 10 minutes.

The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them.
undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.

NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save!
NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors.
NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy.
MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.


After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines

Saved me $175.00 to $250.00 for an appliance repairman to come to my house for this. Absolutely simple to do. Pull gasket from right side door, no tabs or screws. Replace with new gasket, simply push new in by hand. Left side door needs two screws removed from’ flap. Now, gently bump the bottom of the flap to lift the flap up only three inches or so. Remove the electrical connection tab under the metal plate that the two screws secured. Now, repeat what you did on the right side door. Simple!

It was easy; just pull off the old gaskets and press in the new. Used the putty knife to help set the new gasket, but was really not needed. The flat shipping pack helped because there were no kinks or folds to worry about.

I followed the directions! It was so easy that I bought another switch for my sister's fridge (same as mine). Her light was out too!

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

The refrigerator had the above code and when I check on YouTube, it explained that the defrosting was not working properly. It was taking more than 80 minutes to defrost. I ordered the Temperature Sensor first and it was not the issue. I also ordered the Defrost Temperature fuse or the Thermistor. I had to defrost the refrigerator first by using a portable heater to get it done quickly. (See Youtube on how to get to the Defrosting Unit inside the freezer). The Thermistor was the wrong part. I called the Partselect and explained that the part with the heating element is one piece. (Heating Coil Thermistor or Heating Coil). By replacing that piece solved the Error Code issue. I listened to Youtube for the instructions on how to replace the Heater Coil. So if you see the Error Code dH F, you need to replace the Heating Coil, which comes in
one piece and sits on the bottom of the Defrost Element.