6893XVB Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I got the run around about my HARWICK stove at several part stores. Like they all said the same thing (cant look it up just bring it down) So i did and then they would say, what's the model number. ERR! SO my wife found parts select on the web and they beat the three price quotes I got. First turn the power off to the stove!!! The repair was simple. Just remove the two screws on both side's and pull the element out but just enough for the wire's to show. Disconnect the two wire's and pull the element out. Reverse the processes but when wire's are reconnected squeeze terminals end gently to ensure a good connection. This is a great company to deal with, I will be using them again. Thanks and good luck!!!

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

I watched the video on the web site and it worked like a dream. Two screws to take out - disconnect wires put back connecting wires and replace the screws again. Just like the video. Thanks

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!

Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Removed the two screws that held the element in place and then pulled off the element from the connectors. Slipped the new connectors on. Tested the oven - Baked some blackberry cobbler!

Removed the old element by removing 2 screws and disconnecting two solderless connectors. One solderless connector was melted in two. I had to remove the rear panel and cut the old connector off and crimped on a new solderless connector. The time required was lengthened due to trip to the hardware store to get a new connector. While I was fixing the oven element my wife replaced the oven light.

Replaced drip pan. Notch did not want to match the burner notch. Was a close fit bit with a little pressure made it work.

Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.