66517054401 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Checked the house circuit breaker, verified AC to the box under the dishwasher, removed the screws around the inside door cover, and removed the cover. Removed the outer circuit board cover. Used a multi-meter to verify AC to the door latch, and to verify the latch switch was working. Verified AC to the thermal fuse above the circuit board when the door latch was closed. Verified no AC on the other side of the thermal fuse. Removed the thermal fuse connections with pliers. Used thin flat blade screw driver to unsnap the thermal fuse assembly. Used multi-meter to verify no continuity through the fuse. Ordered the fuse assembly and replaced. Reconnected the thermal fuse connections. Manually closed door switch and saw lights on the display panel, and dishwasher started. Replaced all covers and works great.

Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.

Simply made sure the cap was securely in place.

Unscrewed door, removed cover , and removed control panel; the only tricky part of the repair. It slid out by moving it in the opposite direction than it appeared! Once I realized which way it came out, the wiring modules were easily snapped in place; the I just put it all back in reverse order. If I knew how to snap the panel out it would be a 5 minute job.

A warrantied replacement would have cost more; how much depends on how much time a repairperson would "clock".

Need torx to remove front panel. There are four screws that hold the control panel that don't need to be removed. If you do remove them, it helps to put the control panel back before you reinstall the front. The six screws that hold the soap dispenser are a very small hex (<1/4, maybe 3/16). It would help to have some small sockets or nut drivers handy for this.

The door balance is easy.

Replaced the switch, that did not fix it, but a new circuit card did

Removed back of door to access the screws holding on the air inlet. The top of the door with the controls does not need to be removed, I found out--only the bottom part. Accessing the 5 screws was difficult as there was no space to get the socket onto the screws at a 90 degree angle. Also, there are two plastic shields that fall off when you remove the inlet that need to be replaced, with difficulty because of the accessibility to the area.

PartSelect site is excellent and finding the correct part was relatively simple, although I was not absolutely sure I ordered the right part until it arrived--only one day after ordering, although I paid for the least S&H option.

Disconnected power to dishwasher. Removed water supply hose from inlet water valve.
Removed lower and upper racks. Removed Lower spray arm. Removed tube from pump tp top spinner. Pulled dishwasher from under cabinet (remember to tip to get back out!). Placed dishwasher on its back. Removed electrical connectors from water valve, main motor and drain motor. Removed drain hose from drain pump. Removed pump/motor assy by pulling out wedges and pushing assembly into dishwasher. Removed pump/motor assy from inside dishwasher. Cleaned out pump. Installed new chopper. Re-install pump/motor assy. Re-install driain pump hose. Re-connect the pumps and water valve electric connectors. Slide dishwasher near cabinet for re-install. Re-connect drain hose to dishwasher. Re-install dishwasher under cabinet.Reconnect water supply. Removed top spinner from tube. Installed new spinner onto tube. Re-install tube onto main pump (below lower spray arm). Clean out and re-install lower spray arm. Remove middle spray arm from top rack. Clean out spray arm. Re-install spray arm with a new gasket (gasket may have not been needed). Re-installed lower and top racks. Re-connect power supply. Position all three spray arms pointing towards the door to confirm they were turning. Tested dishwasher - confirmed fill, wash, and drain properly. Also confirmed that all three spray arms were turning. Machine is washing, draining and running great since!

After replacing broken door cables I had a small leak at the door corner. I replaced door seal with that not fixing the leak and found that the door hinges were bent a little from the cables being broke for awile. Installed new hinges and leak is fixed now. A little difficult but once unit was pulled out about 6 inches the hinges were not bad to replace

I read online about a few other people who had the blinking light problem. Suggestions were to press a series of other buttons in sequence. Didn't work. I went to the advice website and paid $24 to be told it was the control board. I ordered a control board. As I was preparing to install it, I noticed a black spot on the ribbon connector that was across two of the printed (?) flat wires. I gently scraped it off. It was shorting the two flat wires. I put it all back together with the old board, and all is working well. It's been a week.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.

I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.