6498VVV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

The only difficulty with following the supplied video, is that my ignitor did not come out as easily as a few turns of the screwdriver. The screws stripped as I tried to remove them, making them twirl in their holes. I had to apply back pressure for them to come off and free the ignitor for replacement. Other than that, the installation went smoothly, and the oven sprang to life within 10 seconds of turning it on.

I simply followed the "general" instructions from the online video "Partselect" provides and perused the instructions included in the kit. The OEM igniter was much longer than the replacement but the new part was spec'd just fine. It was necessary for me to open up the back of the stove in order to retrofit the igniter leads to the original block connector and install the heat resistant padding included in the kit. The additional necessary hardware fit very nicely inside the oven. The stove's oven fired up without any problems and spared me the expense of purchasing a new oven. Thank you very much "Partselect".

I removed and replaced the igniter. I described these symptoms on the web site and it detailed that90% of the time by installing a new igniter it will fix the described problem. So I ordered the part and installed the part and everything worked OK. The only tool I had to use was a screw driver to remove three screws. It took about half an hour. If I had to do it again it would take about 15 minutes.

Unplugged oven. Removed door,racks,and bottom shelf. Removed screws from ignitor and unplugged it from connection. Installed new ignitor with screws and plugged in to connection. Tucked wires behind insulation as they were before. Installed previously mentioned items and turned on to check. Worked great and am very pleased with PartSelect and the assistance they offer.

Ordered oven Igniter kit PS1573892 which cost $73.00. Received the kit with instructions easy to follow to install. I was surprised how easy it was to repair, with the help of my wife we did the job in about 2 hours, the oven now works great. I really saved a bundle of money doing this myself, a local repair service wanted $114.00 for the same part and $200.00 labor to install and this is the gospel truth. I am 96 years old. RMA Bluefield, WV

Take off oven door, remove racks, lift out bottom plate of oven, remove deflector shield, unbolt old igniter gently fish out the wire and plug from the back of the oven. Unplug and replace with the new igniter. re-assemble oven.

Pulled up the old burner, disconnected the ignition wires, re-connected them to the new burner, replaced the new burner in the stove and presto - everything worked as it should.

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Followed the directions on the video. Very easy to do.

I had to pull the range out from the wall and loosen the rear cover to free the connector for the sensor as it got stuck on a corner guide. Put the new sensor in, rear cover back on, range back in place and tested the oven. Oven heats fast now and keeps a more even temp. Makes me wonder how long I was trying to cook with a bad sensor.

I have and in the wall Magic Chef oven CGW3330ADW seriel 10799876US that came the purchase of my home 10yrs. ago. After a black out and 2 brown outs my oven would not start and the F3 code is beeping and the "door lock" light was on but the door was unlocked. The clock was working fine, but could not use the timer or set the temperature. I googled "FLASHING F3 code" and one of the results was the comment thread on the Parts Select website. When I clicked the link I read several customers sharing their story that was very similar to mine. I was able to click on a video and see a short demonstration on "HOW EASY" it was to replace the "Short Oven Sensor Kit." I though, "Yea right!" I left a comment on that You Tube video with my make and model and a brief explanation of my problem. I received a reply to my comment with in 24 hours, confirming what other consumers had shared...The "Short Oven Sensor Kit" was needing to be replaced. I ordered the part for around $30 VERY late on Thursday evening and when I woke on Friday morning, I a shipping confirmation email. I received it VERY early on Saturday morning! I was able to replace the part very easily with in about 10 minutes. I was VERY LUCKY that I was able to to the repair WITHOUT having to remove the oven for the wall! I would have had to pay for help if I had to remove it from the wall. The Parts Select web site save me over $400 which was the estimate for the parts and labor from a local appliance repair business! I was told that it would probably be cheaper or about the same as buying a new over which was their recommendation. I am so glad that I decided to do the research and in less that 1 hour I had my order placed. Thank You Parts Select!

Repair was super easy, Remove Screws. (the hardest part was trying to remove the edging of the door without cracking it, or breaking the tabs used to secure it) Once I got the edges off, I slid the front of the door off, removed the screws and braces holding the outer glass. Picked out the broken pieces, cleaned all the glass and inside the door and put it all back together. If I didn't clean everything, it would've taken half the time.

I replaced the Dual Oven Safety Valve and that didn't fix it. Turns out that even if the igniter glows it still can be the problem. Since the igniter is in the circuit of the Dual Oven Safety Valve, each igniter is responsible for their half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. Apparently as the igniter ages the ohms of the igniter go up reducing the voltage below the 3.3V to 3.6V necessary to open the valve (bi-metal strip wrapped with cal rod wire inside of Dual Oven Safety Valve). Once the ohms go up and the voltage goes down no gas is released from that half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. So it will appear that the Dual Oven Safety Valve is bad but that is not the case. It will be the Igniter corresponding to the burner that is not lighting.

Make sure power to the oven is disconnected. Remove all shelves. Partially open the bottom door and yank it out so it is out of your way. The igniter is next to the back and upper wall of the oven inside the lower (broiler) compartment. The igniter is held by two screws which I opened using a 5/16 or 8mm nut driver. After removing the two screws, remove the back plate using a regular phillips screwdriver. Next, pull out the two igniter wires until the connector comes out. Pressing the side tabs disconnect the igniter from the connector. Connect the new igniter. If nesessary, replenish some of the insulation with new insulation that arrived with the new igniter. Push excessive igniter wiring back, remount the backplate using the phillips screwdriver. Remount the new igniter using the nutdriver. Remount the bottom door. Put all shelves back. You are done.

I removed the sensor from the oven using a philip screw driver. The sensor was removed by removing the two screws holding it in place in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I had to disconnect the sensor on the back of stove. Then I pulled the old sensor through the hole inside the oven. Then I installed the new sensor by putting the wire of the sensor through the hole where the old sensor was removed. Then I hooked up the wire in the back of the stove. Then took the screw driver and replaced the two screws holding the sensor in place. It was very easy to do and the oven is doing fine now.