59672002011 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the repair video on the website and was able to complete the repair in under 5 minutes. Super Easy!

Repair was very easy. I followed the instruction provided by this site for mullion rail. The door gaskets were a simple push fit. but needed the use of a hair drier to remove crimps in the rubber. Overall excellent. The refrigerator is working and cooling well.

Removed the plastic frame, washed the frame and fridge, set new glass into the frame.

Viewed easy online instruction video. Laid gaskets on flat surface and warmed with hair dryer until they were smooth and unwrinkled. Starting at the top I pulled off the old gasket and beginning at the top I snapped in the new gasket. Carefully smooth as you go. I'm a 72 year old women and if I can do it, you can do it!

I watched video provided on the part page. It was very easy to pull off the old gaskets. No tools needed. Also easy to push new gaskets into the grooves. I think it helped solve the failure to close program.

The glass shelf sits on top of the crisper housing. That was the problem since when I turned the housing over to clean, the glass fell off. I just had to set the new part on to the housing and it was fixed.
I do want to comment on how easy it was to find the part on your website, how reasonable the price and the quick delivery. Thanks!

Looked at several videos on line in order to learn how to remove door and and all trays and bins and remove ice maker. Mostly straight forward. It helps to have a second pair of hands and eyes to assist. But could be done alone.Never did this before but I would say that, with a little courage, anyone could do this. I had a local repair estimate of almost $300. I did the job for the cost of the part, $80.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

No tools required, but you must be careful not to shove or jam this kick plate into place as it is a plastic part and not really very sturdy. This is the second time I have replaced the kick plate and PartSelect has always been knowledgeable, polite, and helpful
!!

Laid out new gaskets in sunlight to make them pliable. Removed old gasket by gently pulling them out of the channels around the door. I then did the reverse with the new gaskets. Starting at the top I pushed the new gasket into the channel, moving in one direction around the door. Make sure the outer lip of the gasket does not fold under itself. It should lie flat on the surface of the door. It is truly that easy.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Removed rear cover, removed fan and than drip tray. install new tray and reassemblied

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Replaced ice maker, but new one drips.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now