5898XRB Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Took two screws out unplugged the element and plugged the new one in and replaced the screws and turned the breaker back on. Works great...Piece of cake..jk

I let my husband to the work...But it was very easy. I could have done it! He removed the screws, pulled the wires off previous element. Reattached the wires to the new element and screwed the ends back in place.

Removed the electrical power. Lifted up the top. Slipped off the two connecting wires. Removed two screws. reinstalled new thermostat in reverse order.

I received the new element on the third day, followed simple directions, and voila! I'm baking again.
First I unplugged the stove. Important!. Then with a phillips head screwdriver I removed the two screws at the back of the oven. The transition from busted to new was easy because there was a slide-in connection to the wires, not screws. The best advice was sticking duct tape on the wires so they wouldn't go back into the inner sanctum before I was able to attach the new element. Hey, I'm a 72-year-old grandma, and it was easy!

Removed 2 phillips screws, unplugged 2 wires, threw away old element. Installation of the new element was just as easy but in reverse order. Piece of cake!

Turned off power, removed 2 screws, un-hooked the connections, them put in the new element in reverse order.

First I turned off power to the range at the fuse box (very important-The last time I didn't do this and ended up paying a repairman $150.00 to replace the damaged connectors). I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the new element, pushed the element back in and replaced the screws. Turned the power back on and tested the element. The whole job took about 30 minutes because I had trouble disconnecting the old element. I used the flat end of the scrapper to push against the connector while I pulled the element out. Normally it would take only about 15 minutes.

First I cut the power to the stove. Then I unscrewed the two screws. Pulled the element out a few inches. I had to use pliers to disconnect it from its wires. It was a very tight fit. Then I reconnected the new element. Cut the power back and and fired her up. Boy did she burn like fire.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

I first shut off the breaker to the stove - safety first!

I used a phillips screw driver to remove the two screws that held the old element in. Then I pulled the old element out and used the pliers to remove the electrical connections. I put the new element in, made the electrical connections and secured it with the screws. After restoring powere via the breaker, we tested the stove and it worked. Just call me the Maytag Man!

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Removed the cooktop using screwdriver. Pushed lens-light into cooktop hole.It was difficult to do and was where I spent most of my time. Next time I will spray bottom of lens- light with silicon so it goes in easier. I stood cooktop up on its side and inserted the red light assembly onto the lens-light. Reinstalled cooktop
and turned electrical power on.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

I removed the two screws at the rear of the oven and pulled out the existing element, plugged in the new element, pushing it back in place and mounted the screws back in the bracket. I then made the "Tim the Tool Man" grunt noises feeling very proud that I am now officially a Handy Woman!