41220147 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled the lower left side end of the old door gasket out of door gasket retaining slot and slowly and evenly continued to work my way around the door pulling the door gasket out of the retaining slot until I reached the end. I installed the new gasket into retaining the retaining slot beginning on lower left side and then slowly and evenly working my way around the door inserting the new gasket into the retaining slot. I was careful to make sure the two cutout portions of the new gasket's retaining edge were correctly positioned in the lower corners of the door.

We ordered our motor and pump assembly. When it arrived we followed the instructions that came with it. We had no problem with the instructions. We found it to be really easy. I was very happy since this happened 4 days before Thanksgiving. Thanks for the easy instructions, my husband got my dishwasher repaired in plenty of time for our Thanksgiving family get together.

remove water connection; shut off circuit breaker ; follow the suplied directions; reassemble washer . job done - leak gone. Wife happy.

We ordered the pump kit by model number and it was a perfect match.(It was on our door step in 2 days with normal shipping!) Three bolts and a couple of electrical connections later and the pump was off The install was just as easy. The instructions were very easy to follow.It's great to find a company these days that knows what it is doing and does exactly what it says it will do.
Kudos and thanks!

It turned out to be an easier job than I thought it was going to be. Of course, I was still a bit surprised it worked right and didn't leak once I was done.

I started by taking off the servo that opens up the drain valve. I didn't think I could take out and replace the shaft seal from this position so I took the whole motor and drain assembly out by loosening the sump and pump clamps. This allowed me to wiggle out the whole mechanism. One plug and a ground wire had to be undone but that was it. The Push On Nut was the worst part - pain to take off - worse to get a new one on. I wasn't sure (still not) if I could get it in the right place. Once I got everything back together and the servo mount on it seemed to hold the nut in the right place.

I tested it and yelled "it doesn't leak!" my wife promptly said "Yet!".

We have run the dishwasher twice - so far - no leaks!

I couldn't have done it with out PartSelect's prompt service, diagrams, and part photos. I don't want to fix any more appliances but if I have to PartSelect is where I'll come for parts and diagrams.

Based on what I read from other people and partselect, it was fairly easy to ascertain what was wrong. I removed the solonoid valve by removing the two screws that held in place. Had to clean up the solonoid valve rod due to water leaking into it by running it on a wire brush. Pulled out the stop nut and old seal and replaced it with the new seal. Could not get the new stop nut on but it does not seem to move so let it go. Have to say that reading all the comments certainly helped me with the repair. Additionally, ordered parts by email at 10:30 in the morning and receiving them the very next day. Could not believe they were delivered so quickly.

With coin, to remove the end cap from the front inside of the rail, insert the edge of the coin into the side of the end cap and push the coin to the rear while rotating the end cap to the inside of the tray until it comes free. Don't force. Pepeat for other rail. Repeat to reinstall end caps. You can can now slide out the the tray. Use long nose pliers to remove old rollers and insert new roller(s) on same prong. Do all 4. Reinsert tray and end caps.

Pulled out the top tray fully, popped off the end caps. Removed the tray and placed it on the cabinet top. Popped off the old rollers and snapped on the new rollers. Replaced the tray into the dishwasher, Popped the end caps back on and I was done.

Watched the video and swapped out the parts when they came. One of the arms that one of the rollers attached to was rusted and swollen had to remove the plastic coating and sand in order to get a good roller fit. Went super easy

Removed all 8 wheels and inserted the new one after inserting the axles into each wheel. Replacement wheels had a much better connection to the bottom rack and do not anticipate any problems in the future.

There was a video on the page as the part. Done in a flash. The axle was a little hard to get into the wheel so I soaked it in a little hot water and it whet in like a charm.

Followed the very excellent instructions provided on website by Hotpoint/GE

Installation was very easy! Rack works perfectly now. Only problem...bought four sets instead of 4 parts since the order form didn't say it included 4 in each pack.

UNPACKED WHEELS AND CLIP. USING NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS SQUEEZED WHEEL TIP TO INSERT IN WHEEL. REMOVED OLD WHEELS AND RETAINER BY HAND. INSTALLED NEW WHEELS INSTALLED AND NEW RETAINERS

The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.

Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.