3RLEQ8033SW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Watched video and removed lower cover of dryer then removed and replaced the thermal cut-off .Dryer works great now.

Our dryer produced no heat. I thought that it was the electrical heating element because this part had failed a number of years ago. But when we received the heating element, and I opened up the back of the dryer to install it, I found that the element was OK. (Visual inspection as well as using an ohm meter.) I then ordered the thermal cut-off kit, (which was over a week in getting to us because Fed-Ex misdirected the shipment). Once the kit arrived it was very simple to remove the Allen-head screws on both parts, install the two new parts, reconnect the wires, replace the back panel on the dryer and hook up power and the dryer vent hose. The dryer works just fine.

Tested the two thermostats, thermal fuse and the hi limit cut off for conductivity. The hi limit tested open. The others tested closed. Replaced the hi limit. Cleaned lint from the lint duct assembly after removing the two hex head screws that hold the assembly to the blower housing. The lint was packed in there solid. Cleaned up all around. Reassembled everything. Looks and works like brand new. Access was completely from the front panel. CAUTION: The rear panel is spot welded on although it has eight or nine hex head screws also, and when you remove them, the holes don't line up for replacing them. Took a lot of head scratching and time to get things lined up so the screws would go back in again. Don't try to remove the rear panel like the video shows.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.

Before anything unplug the dryer
1) Remove the back panel to include electric cable. 2) Remove the lower front panel. 3) Remove top panel. 4) Remove control panel 5) remove door assembly to include metal frame and front panel of the blower housing. (much easier than trying to do this separately. 6) Remove drum belt by pulling back on the idler pulley (spring). 7) Remove drum. 8) Remove idler pulley retaining ring and pulley. 9) remove old seal on blower housing. 10) I added high temp grease to the pulley shaft and installed new pulley. 11) Install new blower seal. 12) Install drum and new belt. 13) Re-install all the panels.

Replaced Thermal Cut-off kit and Heating Element

Watched video & took my time. It went easy

Remove the back panel. Remove wires from top sensor and bottom sensor and remove old sensors. Install new sensors and replace wires. Dryer works great.

Took the dryer apart and replaced the idler pulley with bracket and the drive belt

Couple screws behind the electrical panel at the top and the top pushed back and was able to remove front panel, and then it was pretty easy. Take the two screws on top front, lint trap screws . The lint trap vent needs to come off. Then the belt, drum comes out to access the idler pulley. I did replace two drum wheels, I saw there was 5. I would recommend replacing all of them, they didn’t move well…..

I ordered this to repair my girlfriend's mother's dryer. But according to my luck, the day the part was to arrive, I suffered an small brain bleed that put me in the hospital for a couple of weeks. I had read the instructions and was able to explain it to my girlfriend who replaced it and got it all back going right!

The pulley is accessible from the back of the dryer. Disconnect the gas line. Remove all the screws. Also remove the small plate that secures the line cord. Lift the back up and out. I was able to avoid disconnecting the water line. Take a picture of the pulley so that you will have a record of the belt routing. Release the spring and remove and replace the pulley and bracket. Vacuum out the lint. Plug in the dryer to make sure that it works properly before reassembly.

replaced dryer lint screen with new.

This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side.
Instructions:
1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor.
Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer &
screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn.
2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level.
3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position.
4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment.
5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.

After removing the exhaust pipe and clamp, I unscrewed the back panel with a 1/4 inch drive socket set. That exposed the wires and the wiring skematic. I used a multimeter to track the power to the element and found that no power was reaching the element. I then unplogged the unit removing all power and tested the resistance on each thermal fuse. The lower fuse had no resistance and the upper fuse did. I then disconnected the upper fuse, used a jumper wire the connect both wires together to bi-passed the fuse. I reconnected the power and turned on the dryer. The dryer element worked, confirming my suspicions of the bad fuse. Once I ordered the fuse and only paid for regular delivery I had the fuse with 24 hours and dryer back together within very little time. It took me more time to clean up the lint dust then it did to fix the problem.