3542XRW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I received the new element on the third day, followed simple directions, and voila! I'm baking again.
First I unplugged the stove. Important!. Then with a phillips head screwdriver I removed the two screws at the back of the oven. The transition from busted to new was easy because there was a slide-in connection to the wires, not screws. The best advice was sticking duct tape on the wires so they wouldn't go back into the inner sanctum before I was able to attach the new element. Hey, I'm a 72-year-old grandma, and it was easy!

First I cut the power to the stove. Then I unscrewed the two screws. Pulled the element out a few inches. I had to use pliers to disconnect it from its wires. It was a very tight fit. Then I reconnected the new element. Cut the power back and and fired her up. Boy did she burn like fire.

I first shut off the breaker to the stove - safety first!

I used a phillips screw driver to remove the two screws that held the old element in. Then I pulled the old element out and used the pliers to remove the electrical connections. I put the new element in, made the electrical connections and secured it with the screws. After restoring powere via the breaker, we tested the stove and it worked. Just call me the Maytag Man!

Turn off breaker.
Unscrew old element, disconnect wires.
Connect wires to new element, tighten screws.
Breaker back to ON.
Done.

I let my husband to the work...But it was very easy. I could have done it! He removed the screws, pulled the wires off previous element. Reattached the wires to the new element and screwed the ends back in place.

Unplugged stove, unscrewed element pulled element out about 3 inces and disconnected element. Took model of stove looked on line for part. PartSelect had the best price and easiest web site to order part. Ordered part about 4pm and received part in 2 days. Took element out of box plug into connections and screwed the element back in. Plugged stove in and worked perfect.

First I turned off power to the range at the fuse box (very important-The last time I didn't do this and ended up paying a repairman $150.00 to replace the damaged connectors). I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the new element, pushed the element back in and replaced the screws. Turned the power back on and tested the element. The whole job took about 30 minutes because I had trouble disconnecting the old element. I used the flat end of the scrapper to push against the connector while I pulled the element out. Normally it would take only about 15 minutes.

Turned off power, removed 2 screws, un-hooked the connections, them put in the new element in reverse order.

Removed the old element by removing 2 screws and disconnecting two solderless connectors. One solderless connector was melted in two. I had to remove the rear panel and cut the old connector off and crimped on a new solderless connector. The time required was lengthened due to trip to the hardware store to get a new connector. While I was fixing the oven element my wife replaced the oven light.

Unplugged the range. Took our the oven shelves. Unscrewed the bars holding the broken bake element to the back of the oven wall. Gently pulled out the wiring to which the bake element is attached. Slipped the ends of the broken bake element off the ending on the wiring. Then slipped the ends of the new bake element over the ends on the wiring. Then pushed the wiring with attached bake element back into their position behind the oven wall and attached the bars holding the bake element to the back of the oven wall. This is really easy because it is exactly like the on-line video, for I am a 75 year old female with little technical experience.

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.

Replaced drip pan. Notch did not want to match the burner notch. Was a close fit bit with a little pressure made it work.

Removed two screws and disconnected the element. Reconnected the new element and reinstalled the screws

I removed the two screws at the rear of the oven and pulled out the existing element, plugged in the new element, pushing it back in place and mounted the screws back in the bracket. I then made the "Tim the Tool Man" grunt noises feeling very proud that I am now officially a Handy Woman!