31F-1 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed door. Removed bottom linerin stove that cover burner. Unplugged old ingnitor. unscrewed old ignitor. Removed old ignitor. Screwed in new ignitor. Plugged in new ignitor. Checked function. Put door back on and bottom liner back in. Took less than 15 minutes. One of the easiest repairs ever.

This oven was purchased in 1992 . Hardest & time consuming issue was getting the old part out. First unplug unit from outlet. Take off oven door(very easy to do). Take out oven racks & lift out bottom of oven(also simple to do). Pull out storage drawer all the way out & put aside out of your way. Take off burner baffle. This is held on with 1 butterfiy screw. This igniter plugs in the same way a phone slips into the jack. Use a flash light if needed. Where you pulled the storage drawer out from all the way in the back pull out the connection holding the old ignition wires into the oven(this is the phone type part spoke of above). Go back into the oven & un screw the 2 screws that hold in the igniter to the bake burner pipe. Now you can carefully pull out the old igniter since you already unpluged it earlier. Slip connection wires from new igniter in the same hole old was pulled from in back of oven. Screw the 2 screws into the new igniter to hold it to the bake burner pipe. Go back down to the storage draw space & plug into bottem back. Replace storage drawer. Replace burner baffle. Replace bottem of oven making sure to seat it in correctly. Replace door . Remember to connect to electric again & you should be good to go. I would like to now say something about the excellent service received from parts select. They have an excellent user friendly site & I received my part the next day.

Replaced the ceramic glow ignitor by removeing the two screws holding it to the mounting bracket. Gas and electric were tturned off. Unplugged the ignitor from rear of oven. Installed new switch in the same way and if worked perfect. Part was ordered online for $48. I saved one hundred dollars by doing it myself. My outdoor grill was harder than this.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.

Using a remote digital thermometer, noted that the oven temp reached operating temp, then fell 40-50 degrees, was slow to recover. After reading entries from others on your web site, removed oven floor and watched the burner operation. The igniter would light the gas at first, the temp would go up, gas would shut off. Then when the igniter came on again, it would glow for a long time before gas would come on.The replacement was very simple, even though one of the mounting screws twisted off, the remaining screw seems to be holding.Was a simple unplug old connector, insert new connector. The optional parts included in the kit were not needed.

My brother-in-law did the repair as I am a scardy-cat and didn't want to tackle it myself. The most difficult part of the repair was the awkward position you have to get your body in to do the repair. Other than that it was a piece of cake.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

installed new control unit had to use the old dial so it would match . Toughest part is the cleaning! needed it.

Replaced stripped screws with 632 by 3/8 bolts and nuts. Your video helped with the rest of the installation.

The oven in my Jenn-Air range started to leak gas whenever I turned it on and a visit from the local gas company indicated the ignitor had probably gone bad. I had assumed the older range wasn't worth repairing but didn't want to spend $800+ for something in otherwise excellent condition. Internet research yielded lots of tutorials on how to make the swap and I decided to see if I could get the old part out before going any further. It wasn't too tricky except one of the two screws holding the ignitor in place had stripped and it was in a location that was very difficult to reach. I used a part of tin snips to cut around it. The new part ordered here came very quickly and exactly matched what I had removed; the wiring harness fit perfectly. It was a snap to put back in and now the oven works perfectly. All for under $50.

Remove oven door and bottom panel. Remove metal shield above the burner. Unscrew old igniter from brace. All this was straightforward. Then I found the old (long) igniter did not have a convenient plug that I could pull through the hole in the back of the oven. So I had to clip the two wires to remove the old igniter and stripped the insulation of these wires. Then I clipped the two wires of the new igniter since, unfortunately, I could not use the convenient plastic connector. I stripped the wires of the new igniter and connected both to the previously stripped wires coming through the hole from the back of the oven. I twisted on the ceramic wire nuts provided. It took 10-15 minutes or so to be confident these wire nuts wouldn't just fall off on their own. Then I stuffed the wire nut connections back through the hole, stuffed in all the insulation provided (necessary for the new (short) igniter!) and screwed the new igniter to the old brace. (I didn't need the new brace supplied or two long wires supplied.) Total time was about 70 minutes. The oven works well! This experience is much better than finding a repairman, scheduling the visit, etc.

Ordered oven Igniter kit PS1573892 which cost $73.00. Received the kit with instructions easy to follow to install. I was surprised how easy it was to repair, with the help of my wife we did the job in about 2 hours, the oven now works great. I really saved a bundle of money doing this myself, a local repair service wanted $114.00 for the same part and $200.00 labor to install and this is the gospel truth. I am 96 years old. RMA Bluefield, WV

Basic instructions provided were accurate. Most difficult part was bending down and reaching across the oven door. A general information note would have been helpful. The circuit that feeds the igniter and the gas valve is a series circuit. So, even though the igniter was glowing cherry red, the igniter was still the cause of the gas not flowing, The voltage drop across the igniter was larger then normal causing the voltage to the gas valve to go down and to be insufficient to allow the gas to flow.