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My range drip pans were rusty and crusty.
I found your website fast and easy. I needed replacement drip pans fast, ordered them on-line, and received them within 3 days of ordering. Your parts were the best deal, the least shipping charges, and the picture and description on your website was the best. Thanks.
Oven would not come on. If it did, it took a long time to heat up.
Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. Stripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.
I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,
Oven was slow to light, strong gas smell, long time to reach set temperature
Unplugged stove, removed floor of oven, removed two screws holding igniter, cut wires to igniter, installed new igniter, cut and stripped wires on new igniter and leads, connected new ingiter with supplied ceramic wire nuts, tested (worked perfectly!), then replaced oven floor.
I first removed the 2 screws that held the oven floor in place. Once removed, I remove the cover plate that covered the ignitor.
In order to get to the ignitor wires, I had to remove the drawer. Once the drawer was removed, I marked which wire went to which spot on the ignitor, then cut the wires. I then removed the old ignitor by removing 2 screws. I then attached the new ignitor with the 2 screws and attached the wires using the enclose wire nuts.
The complete process was very easy, taking less than half an hour. The part with shipping was just over $50. If I paid someone to fix my problem it would have cost at least $200. I'm sure galad I found this web site.
Unplug electicity, Take out all inside pans, unscrew the burner arm, disconnect white power wires to the igniter. remover gas buner, detach the igniter and attach the new igniter to the burner arm. re assemble the burner arm, connenct the white wires to the white wires from the oven just below the igniter. Put all pans and guards back in oven, plug in and test.
Unplug electric , remove old igniter, cut wires, shorten new igniter wires, strip insulation, wire nut together, attach new igniter, plug in electric, fire it up. Worked great.
Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.
With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.
The igniter would glow but the gas would not come on.
I removed the oven bottom which was held by two large head long screws. I then removed the heat deflector using a small socket. The only difficult part was when I went to replace the igniter. The screws that were holding it in place stripped I guess do to the amount of heat they were continually subject too. I had to apply pressure to the igniter bracket while removing the screw using a small socket. Even with that they did not come out easily. If I had not had trouble removing the screws the repair probably would have taken 15 min.
