2448 - Instructions

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed old clip removed rim from tractor, removed grease fitting on rim, took hammer and screw driver knocked out old bushing turned rim over knocked out other bushing. Press in new bushings reinstalled grease fitting slide tire back on tractor, put retaining washers on then locking clip put on dust cover grease at grease fitting. Repeat other side.

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

order pcs fit perfect.

The drive belt literally goes from the back of the tractor to the front. The mower must be removed, helps to have the tractor up on blocks to give adequate room for work on underside. Belt goes easiest on the engine first, then thread to the rear, install on the rear, (driven pulley) then on the idlers. Check to assure that it functions properly before re-installing the mower. If you have the owners manual, there is a diagram, (check your orientation, it is not clear if it is a birdseye or under tractor view) which offered some help. When replacing belt, check the transaxle front mount, mine was broken which is why the belt came off in the first place. Repairing the mount was quite a job in itself, but now works fine.

One night I found a mouse living in my stove. We found it literally living underneath the top of the stove (the part where the burners are that you have to lift up). The insulation on the inside of the stove was literally covered with mouse poop, dog food, dog treats, and scraps of food among other things. It was totally nasty and I thought we would have to buy a new stove. However, I searched online and found replacement insulation on PartSelects website and ordered it. It was cheap and the fix was removing old insulation, vaccuming out and cleaning the stove then replacing the insulation with the new one. PartSelect had a great price and shipped promptly.

Took out the old & easily replace it with the new set. No tools required.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

Just to point out the pans were delivered within a few days which was very quick. I just dropped them in. They fit perfect. Thank You for no stress.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I threw the old ones out and replaced them with the new ones. It was a no-brainer :) The parts arrived super fast. Great, no hassle service.

Ordered new racks and replaced them.

Apparently, the original insulation had been removed due to a mouse infestation-the unit had been in storage for a while. After removing about 50 screws, I had all the body panels off and cleaned out the interior of the stove then installed the new insulation. I put it all back together and hooked it up- works just like new. I only paid 60 bucks for this oven, so all in all, not a bad deal.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]