24472A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

very easy

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

To replace the broken drive coupling on the motor end of the auger requires sliding the ice bin out of the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the ice cubes and let it thaw out for a few minutes. Remove five screws holding the front face on the ice bin to remove the ice auger. slip the new drive coupling over the end of the auger. reassemble and replace the face plate with the five screws. Slide the ice bin back in the freezer. Less than fifteen minutes it was finished.

yup

Screw bulb in and place cover over bulb.

I just lifed the old grate off and layed the new one in.

Unloading the freezer and removing the back panel were the most time consuming aspect of this repair. Many models only have 4 screws, but this one has 9, and being a side by side it was a tight fit to reach them. Once defrosted we tested the thermostat, found it "dead", and ordered a new one. The part came within 3 business days. Installing it took minutes, since we had not permanently screwed in the back panel again. We didn't want to reload everything until we knew things worked properly, so we didn't put everything back right away. We thought we had further problems as the freezer got really cold but the frig still didn't get down to temp. Turns out we just needed to reinstall the fan shield which we'd taken off along with other parts to access and check the vents. The fan shield must be in place to direct the cold air into the vent to the refrigerator. Duh! It was an oversight that once caught made total sense! Now all works fine on this 20 year old Maytag side by side!

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

This review would not be helpful if limited to this part. So I will describe the whole repair. The ice maker was first receiving too much water. This resulted in huge cubes and water dripping out of the ice maker compartment. I tried reducing the amount of water using the valve to the supply line. But then the ice maker stopped making ice. I jumped to the conclusion that the solenoid water valve needed to be replaced. The new valve was easily replaced, but no water was delivered to the ice maker. I then went to the web site and saw that 87% of the time it was the ice maker itself that needed to be replaced. I ordered one and it arrived quickly. Installing it was easy although I might never had figured out how to remove the electrical supply line to the old unit if I hadn’t watched the video. After installation no water went to the ice maker tray.

I had read a review saying that the supply line had frozen where it went into the ice maker. To check out that possibility I removed the line from the solenoid valve and tried to blow air through it. No air would pass. So I removed the ice maker so I could get at the possible ice obstruction. I repeatedly inserted a knife honing steel which I heated and reheated in hot water. Finally I heard water dripping to the floor from the supply line which I had left detached from the solenoid valve. Then I hooked everything up and ice making proceeded nicely. If the solenoid valve ever needs replacing, I have a extra one.

my 17 year old son actually repair it ...it took him all about 5 minutes to install the part and put that refrigerator cover back on ...very easy fix and save me a bundle of cash ...thank you very much and I will be doing more business with you

Checked the ice tray and could only find the drive ring had some breaks in the plastic. Actually did not see why this would stop the auger from turning and dispensing ice. However this was the only thing I could find wrong with the unit. I pulled the tray, removed 6 screws (star tip heads) pulled the auger forward and replaced the drive wheel, put the unit back together and its been working fine ever since.

Easy disassemble removing screws to separate front of ice bin.Be sure to note how metal rod is attached to rear of ice bin. Installed drive ring and reattached face (front) of ice bin in about 15 minutes.

unplug power! Remove the screws from lower panel on back of refrigerator. Lift wire mount out of back panel. Capacitor is mounted directly to the relay and overload switch located on the left side of the compressor. Remove the spring clip holding the capacitor in place and pull the old capacitor out. Plug in new capacitor and replace spring clip. Use vacuum to remove dust from drip pan and wipe fan blades clean. Replace wire into slot on back panel and replace screws. Remove front coil cover below freezer door. vacuum dust off coils and replace cover. Plug refrigerator in and enjoy cold beverages. Relay and overload kit were not required for this repair.

pull unit away from the wall, and unplug it. remove the grill, and cardboard guard on the lower back of the unit. remove Three screws for the motor bracket. Remove the bracket legs from the old motor and assemble them to the new motor. take the fan blade off the old motor, place it on the new. Cut the wires at the old motor, strip the insulation back, use supplied wire nuts to connect the new motor. Reverse order to reassemble. Plug in unit to test function.