2155 - Instructions

I first replaced the icemaker assembly but that didn't fix it so I bought and installed a new inlet valve and that fixed it. This video shows exactly what I did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdHG_6LpdL4
The icemaker didn't start right up so I jumpstarted it by shorting out terminals T and H as shown here.
https://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker-module.php
The wheel should start to turn. Just make sure to remove the jumper wire when the wheel has turned between 1/4 and 1/2 rotation.

Watched the video from whirlpool and it seemed to be relatively straightforward - but as I am afraid of electricity and not much of a DIY guy I had a friend over to supervise - initially diagnosed a leak at the water inlet valve - but after ordering the part online ($75) and before it arrived about 6 days later I started to investigate the valve - initially I could not release the plastic tube from the valve (output to the ice-maker) but I pushed a part or two and managed to release it - when the part arrived I bought 6ft of tubing from a local store who sold it by the foot as opposed to HD who sold a 25ft tube - I also decided to buy new braided stainless steel to go from faucet to the inlet valve ($10) - put together everything when the valve arrived and did not take long to put everything together - time mainly spent after checking leaks - tea towels and small towels around fridge - to my dismay after few days discovered fridge was still leaking at front - so checked a few videos and thought origin of leak must be evaporation tray - so placed a bowl under the overflow on inside at the back of fridge and it seemed to catch the water and no leaks - so I tried to get existing evap. tray out - not easy - clipped into a slot at back of fridge and released that but still struggled to get tray out - eventually forced it out but in doing that I split the tray - so I was not sure that was issue as I had split the tray forcing it out - however looking at the base of fridge where the tray was the surface was v rusty and rust was there on foot of tray - so I assumed that was issue - ordered a new tray ($20 I think) - looking under fridge after I forced out the tray I noticed there were two clips that held the tray in place - but could not see them when tray was in place - so I took some pliers and forced the end of clips up to make it easier to get the new tray in place - so when I received new tray only went in easily - then tested a few days - found a little leak at faucet so tightened the water line nut - so now just testing that water in evap tray does in fact evaporate- so far so good - I'll leave a few more days then attach back cover of fridge and push back fridge to where it should be -I will always wonder if I needed to replace the inlet valve but the experience was worth it as it gives me confidence to attack other jobs - most of my time spent testing for leaks after replacing parts

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

removed the white plate, unscrewed 3 screws and replaced the part.

Watched the video...easy!

Easy, just removed the ice dispenser and the left support for the dispenser so I could get to the bottom screw easier. Three screws held the mold in place. The bottom screw had to be removed completely, but I just loosened the two top screws and lifted the mold out away from the wall and then disconnected the wiring. The end cover snapped of easy with a screw driver. I then removed the three screws holding the motor. then pulled the motor off.(the next square part under the cover. I did this before I realized that I could use a small screw driver and stick it into the holes to remove the mold and not mess with the outer screws. After I removed the mold, I replaced the new mold into position, without putting the white forky looking part back on so I had to take the two screws out and put the part in place before attaching the motor back to the mold. Everything went back together just like a charm. The ice maker is working good, easy job. Gone golfing now.

Watched a video on YouTube on how to replace the icemaker control assembly. The video showed unplugging power, turning off the water supply, and removing the entire ice maker from the freezer. After watching the video several times, I unplugged the refrigerator but did not turn off the water supply. I did not remover the entire ice maker from the freezer, but I did remove the wire shut-off arm. After that, I pried off front cover of the control assembly. The control assembly is held in place by 3 Phillips screws; I removed the screws, removed the icemaker control assembly, replaced the assembly with the new one, replace the cover and wire shut-off arm, and plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. Had ice in about an hour (seemed the system had a little delay before deciding to go to work!).

It took both me and my wife! One of the new parts we recieved was broke so we took the part off of the one that didn't work.

Unplug the fridge. Used the screw driver to remove the motor. Easy. Now putting the new one in was difficult because it has to line up exactly.
Thats what took 15 minutes but after me and my wife worked on it, we had a bucket of ice by morning!
We only knew how to do what we did because of reading these messages on this site. It came with no directions.

Removed icemaker by first removing the nutscrew that holds the cover to the electrical connection in place. Next, I removed the door then slid the icemaker out and diconnected the electrical connector. With the icemaker out, I R&R'ed the motor assy , reconnected the electrical, and slid the icemaker back in place. Next, I replaced the door, turned the icemaker switch on and waited. In about 30 minutes I heard the water being injected into the icemaker, and soon there was ice. The repair was easy and inexpensive. Tx to Partselect which I found on Google.

I took the front panel off the ice maker. Found the contacts on control board were burnt. I called Partselect, told them my model # and they directed me to a new control panel. 4 screws later I had part back on and ice makin.
Thanks Partselect!

John Long

After removing the ice maker, I guessed that the moter could be the problem,bought new part I installed it and held my breath.thankfully that was it.thanks to parts select I saved a lot of money doing it myself.

My ice maker just stopped filling with water one day and after some troubleshooting, I found that a chunk of ice had built up in the tube between the water supply line and freezer. I took the ice maker out (Don't touch the heating element...it really hurts) and defrosted the ice obstruction by injecting hot water into the tube to melt the ice. I used a new plastic syringe you get with an infant over the counter drug and a bucket to catch the water. I noticed the ice cube mold was peeling and decided to replace the mold. The mold is an easy replacement as long as you remember how you took it apart. My mold had some glue or compound stuck to the side that kept me from getting the mold flush against the motor assembly housing so I had to uncrew and scrape that gunk off and reattached. Other than that, there was nothing to it. Now the ice maker is good for another 8 years.

remove the wiring cover, pulled out the ice maker shelf, unpluged the wiring. Once out I removed the control module cover and remove 3 screws and pulled out the old control module. I pushed on the new control module and reattached the 3 screws, attached the module cover and plugged wiring in, slide back into the freezer track, installed wiring cover and screw- 15 minuits tops

sears wanted $450 to replace ice maker or $400 for refubished. I ordered a $60 motor/control unit from parts select. Remove ice maker, remove motor cover, three screws replace and ice within the hour.

Followed video lnstructions which were very good. Have used your web site in the past and will continue to purchase products. Thanks.