1949 - Instructions

Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no water was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!

Getting the new belt installed is a bit tricky; it seems too small to span the pump and drive pulleys.

Nevertheless, start with the belt positioned in the drive pulley and stretch it so one side fits into the slot of the pump pulley. Using both hands, crank the pulley over until the belt "rolls" into place. It may take several tries as the workspace tends to be rather tight. Good luck.

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker has been working flawlessly since the repair.

First, I removed the 4 screws & Toe plate assembly below the door, exposing the undercarriage. The springs for both the right and left side are visible. Secondly, to help gain access to the springs (and for ease in reattaching the new sping to the appropriate tension bracket), I opened the dishwasher door and unscrewed the two small screws (located above the door) that secure the counter-top attach brackets to the underside of the counter. This would normally allow you the opportunity to simply pull the diswasher out a few inches from the counter for easy access. In my case, the lip of the counter did not allow me to pull the diswasher out very far, but I was able to angle it just enough to make access easier. Thirdly, I referred to the diagram that accompanied my replacement spring to make sure that I had the spring positioned properly. There appeared to be a slight difference between tension bracket spring angle for attaching the spring to the door vs side bracket. Fourth, I attached the vinly piece provided to the top spring connection and simply pulled down on the spring to create enough tension to attach the spring to the lower side bracket. Finally, test the door to make sure you have the proper resistance. Push the diswasher back into it's original position, realigning the top bracket holes and reattach the screws that secure the counter top attach brackets. Put away your tools, pack your patience and you are done. It's easy!

Removed bottom front panel with nutdriver,rolled old belt off rolled new belt on and applied belt grease that came with new belt.New belt came with instructions that were exactly right for belt installation. Thank You Danny Hammons

cleaned lime and calcium build up off of gasket
and it stopped the leak . yea . parts select was very helpful and said i could return the unused
gasket. . this is a good place to get parts.thanks larry

Removed the old gasket. It was easy to "pop out" the parts that held the gasket in place with a regular flat blade screwdriver. Becareful not to chip the porclien (sp). Any of the tabs that broke off I just pushed them through and can take them out if I ever need to remove the front of the door. Works fine and no leaks. Clean the area of the old gasket so the new gasket will have a good seal. End of story.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) Then I put the new valve in, put the cover back on the refridgerator and was done. total time 15 minutes. My wife says I'm the man.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

So I decided to stick in some CLR to see if it would clean it up. Well it got considerably worse. So ordered the new faucet adapter, threaded adapter and the two washers, due to not knowing what i would need. It came like unbelievably fast considering it was Christmas time. Unscrewed the old one from the faucet, screwed on the new one. hooked up the dishwasher, watched it for a bit for any leaks at the connection, and it worked great! I seem to have more water pressure too coming from the sink faucet. Thank you so much for the quickness in sending out my order! -- Scott

All I had to do was take apart the door by removing a few screws. Then ripped the old gasket off. I then lined all the tabs up to make sure it was going to fit and then started pulling them through with needle nose pliers. When the door was reassembled I checked the plastic piece where the gasket ends in the tub and found some loose screws that needed to be tightened. After that I ran a few cycles and it does not leak any more.

I would recommend getting the entire unit. I could have replaced the electrical component only, but the other parts were deteriorating.

I removed the 4 screws in the lower side of the door and removed the front.

I lossened the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. This was done with a small hex wrench.

I replaced the dispenser and connected the wires back onto the electrical sensor.

I put the front back on the door and tested the repair. Worked fine

I will be replacing the door gasket next. I found evidence of leakage when I removed the front of the door to replace the detergent cup.