110C68102310 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

i could not find this part anywhere locally,so i found this web site which had this part.i ordered this part and am very glad i did.i received it in 2 days.thank you very much.if you need anything check this place first,you will be very satisfied.

Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.

I was not able to find a video (or other specific instructions) that showed how to access the insides of this particular machine, but eventually figured out that all it takes is popping 2 clips, one on either side of the door by wedging a flathead screwdriver in the space between the top of the machine and the bottom piece that surrounds the door opening. The top then pivots up and can be moved back beyond vertical so that it hold itself in position.

After removing the dryer door, getting to the drum itself was not too difficult and only involves removing half a dozen small bolts. I was able to move the pieces off to the side without disconnecting any of the wiring. Without looking at the parts diagram I can't name any of the pieces involved, but there were only a couple. The drum can then be lifted right off its rollers.

The replacement felt for this dryer has to be fastened with adhesive, and I would recommend running the bead of glue around half of the drum, setting the new felt in place, letting it sit for a few minutes to let the glue set up, then repeating for the other half. I tried installing the entire piece of felt at once, but after getting about 3/4 of it on, pulling the remaining unattached felt taut to fit around the drum ended up removing the first part of the felt because the glue did not have time to set up. If you've ever changed a bicycle tire, you'll know about reaching that point where the tire doesn't seem big enough to fit around the rim, but it just needs to be muscled into place. Same idea here, but trying to muscle the felt over fresh glue while the just installed part comes loose is frustrating and in my case almost resulted in ruining the entire new felt strip. Once the felt is anchored it's easy to pull taut over the remaining part of the drum.

Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch

1 screw to replace.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

Raised the front of top panel with the putty knife and the front panel was unscrewed as the video showed. The drum slid out after the belt was released.

My machine had 4 rollers, which was not shown in the schematics. So I replaced the back, cleaned the front ones and works great for now. Plan to replace the front later.

Removing the tri rings is much easier if cut w wire cutters. Otherwise waist lots of time to get them off. Just buy new ones.

1) Unplugged unit & used the 5 in 1 tool to disengage top panel clips from top of front panel & tilted top panel up & out of the way, .
2) Disconnected electrical connection @ upper right of front panel, Used drill & 5/16" socket & adapter to remove 2 upper front panel screws on backside of panel & removed panel.
3) Removed 4 screws from lint screen duct, unplugged elect. con.@ the right & removed lint screen & duct from dryer bulkhead..
4) Loosened 2 top screws & removed 2 bottom screws from bulkhead & lifted bulkhead up & out & set aside.
5) Slid drum belt off the back of the drum & removed the drum
6) Ceaned the blower moter drive shaft threads & threads inside the shaft pulley. Used a file to clean up any burrs on shaft pulley, coated treads of pulley & shaft with red lock tite thread dressing & re-instaled pulley back onto shaft with ajustable pliers while holding blower fan blades steady from inside the blower motor housing. with other hand. note: (pulley is left handed thread)
7) Looped new belt onto drive motor pulley then worked it back onto blower moter pulley with one hand while turning the blades of the blower from inside the blower housing with other hand until it was back in place & ribs on belt were seated in the mating ribs of the pulley.
8) Put everything back in reverse order with the exception of removing the back panel to reinstall the drum belt onto the drive motor shaft pulley and tensioner @ bottom left in back of the dryer.

Hope this instructional is able to help some one else & good luck with your projects!

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller

Just replaced the old lint filter.

On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the parts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.