11076975440 Kenmore Dryer - Overview

Sections of the 11076975440

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Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(381)
PartSelect #: PS346995
Manufacturer #: 341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the ro...
$17.17
  In Stock
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Door Catch Kit – Part Number: 279570
Door Catch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(125)
PartSelect #: PS334230
Manufacturer #: 279570
This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, ...
$5.04
  In Stock
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Rear Drum Support Roller Kit – Part Number: 349241T
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(120)
PartSelect #: PS347627
Manufacturer #: 349241T
The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does n...
$14.36
  In Stock
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Idler Pulley Assembly – Part Number: WP691366
Idler Pulley Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(22)
PartSelect #: PS11743765
Manufacturer #: WP691366
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long t...
$17.62
  In Stock
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Roller Support Tri-Ring – Part Number: WPW10512946
Roller Support Tri-Ring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11755850
Manufacturer #: WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$13.41
  In Stock
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Heating Element – Part Number: WP4391960
Heating Element
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★★★★★
(52)
PartSelect #: PS11742505
Manufacturer #: WP4391960
This element carries 5200W and 240V. Note: This element no longer includes two terminals and two adapter leads. They must be ordered separately.
$52.85
  In Stock
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Leveling Foot – Part Number: 49621
Leveling Foot
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect #: PS1609293
Manufacturer #: 49621
If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, check that the leveling legs are even. To ensure that the washer is firmly on the ground using all four legs, adjust the legs so...
$11.37
  In Stock
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Drive Motor with Pulley – Part Number: 279827
Drive Motor with Pulley
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★★★★★
(24)
PartSelect #: PS334304
Manufacturer #: 279827
This motor fits most Whirlpool incorporated dryer brands before 1996. NOTE: Pulley is NOT available separately.
$124.53
  In Stock
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Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal – Part Number: WP3390719
Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect #: PS11741444
Manufacturer #: WP3390719
This part attaches to the exhaust duct of your clothes dryer.
$17.95
  In Stock
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Screw, 8/18 x 3/8 – Part Number: WP90767
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
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★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$5.41
  In Stock
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Dryer Door Switch Actuator Spring/Lever – Part Number: WP691581
Dryer Door Switch Actuator Spring/Lever
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(27)
PartSelect #: PS11743767
Manufacturer #: WP691581
This black actuator spring with white rubber tip is used for both dryer doors and washer lids.
$8.00
  In Stock
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Lid Switch – Part Number: W10820036
Lid Switch
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(16)
PartSelect #: PS11723153
Manufacturer #: W10820036
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
$23.67
  In Stock
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Questions And Answers for 11076975440

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Common Symptoms of the 11076975440

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Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Drum Not Spinning
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Will Not Start
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Too hot
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Will not drain
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Door Pops Open
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Won’t Start
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Marks left on clothes
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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Not Heating
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Lid or door won’t close
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Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Ray from Denton, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1323 of 1435 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
674 of 735 people found this instruction helpful.
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Wife told me Dryer would make a funny sound, then stop + had an a funny smell as well. The Electric motor that drove the unit was overheating and locking up, It was time to be replace.
The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Drive Motor with Pulley
  • Mark from Fremont, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
426 of 474 people found this instruction helpful.
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