11076002011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

remove&replace

I followed the video. Removed two screws by the lint filter, lifted up the 2 sides to the top of the dyer, removed the two screws by the door switch. It was that easy. The hard part came when I tried to remove the old switch that took the most time. I used the butter knife, since it was very flat I was able to lift it off. Put in the new switch, put all the parts back together again and it worked just fine. Thank you, PartSelect, I will come to you first. You saved me at least $150.00....

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

I watched the guy repair it on the video provided when i searched for the part. He made it look very easy and he explained it step by step. I ordered the part from partselect.com and 12 hours later i had the part in my hand and proceeded to replace it. Instructions and delivery were amazing. Thanks to all at partselect!!!

Followed the youtube video and it was very helpful. The repair was very simple. Just remove the lint trap, then the two screws under there, then use the putty knife to pop the two front corner clips. Disconnect power before you do anything of course..... once its all disconnected, you will see the switch. 2 Screws hold it in and then it unclips. Reverse to reassemble.

Initially confused by instructions provided in that it stated to loosen a brass coupler. Disconnected power. Removed front bottom panel. Disconnected both leads to ingiter. Removed the 2 screws holding igniter bracket in place. Carefully slid igniter and bracket forward and removed from dryer. Removed screw holding ingiter and replaced with new. Reinstalled in reverse.

I watched to replacement video from the website and followed. I did use the tip of a small knife to get the connector to come loose on the old switch. It was a really easy repair.