11047087601 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

My son pulled the washer out and found the parts that was leaking. He ordered the parts from your company. they arrived the next day and he re-pared the leaks and all is well.thank you

Looked at how the old drain pump was installed, then removed it and installed the new one. It was a fairly simple fix. The only feedback were that the parts picture was a little confusing becuase the picture didnt really look like the actual part, so we were unsure if we were ordering the correct part.

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

It was easy as soon as I previewed a video on how to repair bellow it was all about unscrewing some screws and removing some parts but was simple steps that anyone can do themselves only thing that gave me very little trouble was putting the spring coil around the bellow needed my husband to help me a little so it wouldn't come out place while stretching the spring to make sure everything was good and secure and ran a test washer to make sure it didn't leak afterward.the baffle was very easy to replace with very little pressure I was able to slide it till I heard a click sound and it was secure did laundry same day and every was wonders very happy I was able to save some money on labor :)

First I want to acknowledge Parts Select for their prompt delivery(received parts in less than two days)and their unbeatable prices(approximately 1/3 less than two local appliance repair/parts shops). Repair was straight forward a simple swap of the pump and I saved quite a few dollars.Thanks Parts Select.Any future appliance parts needs will be purchased here.

Removed the 3 bolts attaching top of washer. Disconnected hoses from the inlet value and flow meter, also very careful to remove the wire connections. Removed Water inlet valve (this requires the star screw driver). Did find it best to connect the inlet valve and flow meter before reattaching the inlet valve, as that sits under the lip, it is just a bit of a tight fit to get the hose reconnected between the two. Then reconnected the flow meter hose to the dispensing box, reattached the hoses and ran a cycle no f20 issues, as a note, an f20 has to do with a restriction in the flow of water not with pressure so not sure if it was the inlet valve or flow meter clogging up or both.

I removed the top 3 screws on the rear, removed soap dispenser, removed screw in front corner at soap dispenser,pry off control panel with flat head screwdriver lay on top, removed spring around bellows at door opening, remove 4screws holding door assembly, disconnect 3 molded plugs serving door lock, you will need to hold door while you loosen bellows clamp.Reverse process note: soap dispenser tube can be removed to clean without any tools. It is some much easier when you remove the front door assembly.T-20 torx screwdriver, 9/32 socket Theirs a you tube video also.ghw

A real novice at dyi. Found what the error code meant in the manual and google searched it online. Found Youtube video on repair and was successful in getting the washer to work a few times before the error code returned. Decided to replace the inlet valve and on your site took the advice of a previous user and also changed the flowmeter. Could not have been a better experience. Easy to find the correct parts for my model and got great tips...plus your shipping was excellent. Thanks!

Disconnected power. Turned of the water supply. Removed/disconnected the water lines from the washer. Removed the top by removing three screws. Disconnected the wires/connectors from the valve assembly. Disconnected the water line from the valve assembly to the dispenser assembly. Removed the screw holding the valve assembly on. Installed the valve assembly and reversed the above procedure.

Replaced pump assembly

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Old belt and new belt were not exactly the same. did research and deturminded that the new belt was correct. Reomoved the back panel and rolled the old belt off. Pully is designed to allow changing of the belt without taking the pully off. Put new belt on the motor pully ensuring it was in the groves. started belt on the drum pully and turned it untill it was tight. With an open hand I held the belt on the drum pully so it would not slip off and gave the drum a quick turn to jump the belt onto the pully. rotated the system several turns to make sure everything tracked correctly. Replaced the back panel.