11027042600 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Remove agitator and replace hub. I also recommend replacing the Suspension too. I could tell the hub was bad the piece of metal washer on the bottom was gone. The suspension lost a lot of its stiffing

This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.

I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)

So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).

The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.

Followed video from you tube. Man made it look very easy. Not! Hole that lock has to come through in back was very tricky. Also, DO NOT THROW OUT OLD PART UNTIL NEW ONE IS INSTALLED. The reason for that is there is a CLIP at the end of the old part that is needed to attach new part to wire section in control panel. NO WHERE is it mentioned at you got the clip from the old part. Luckily we saved it. Without that clip, you are screwed.

Was pretty strait forward. Took the back panel off, removed the 3 mount screws and 2 clamps on the pump, and swapped it all out. Only thing, Paid for 2 day air shipping, took a week for the part to come in. But it was still faster and cheaper then my local parts dealer.

Dismantled washer lid to install new locking mechanism.

The most difficult problem was to identify where the leak was and I tried to repair the old pump but that was a waste of my time. I was most impressed with this company in how fast the order was taken and the perfect part was shipped to me. I received the part in approx. 30 hours after I placed the order. The part was delivered by FedExpress to my front door. A very reasonable price for the part. Anyway, most anyone could have done the repair that I did without difficulty.

two small compression clamps hold the hoses in place. these are very simple to remove, however to reinstall the new hoses you should unscrew the pumps with a nut driver, secure the hoses with the clamps, and then screw the pump back to the bottom of the drum. oh yeah make sure to put the back plate back on the machine

I wasn't able to turn the washer on it's side or front, and instead had to prop it slightly up on cinder blocks due to the configuration of my laundry room. The actual repair was fairly simple, had the clamps supplied been easy to manuever, but they were not. The clamp that goes around the hose from the pump into the inlet valve wouldn't go down around the valve where it was supposed to. I had it too far up, so when I ran the washer, the whole hose popped out and flooded my laundry room. My husband suggested a better clamp, the type that actually opens and you can tighten with a screw system. $2.16 at Lowes. 2nd attempt at repair was successful, and so far no leaks. So...save yourself some time and when you get the replacement pump, take those clamps over to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a clamp that you can open fully, slip over the valve, and tighten as much as you need. If I had that type of clamp to begin with, this project would have taken an hour, tops. And by the way, I'm a 36 year old woman with NO experience fixing appliances, but plenty of experience paying other people too much money to fix things that never should have broken in the first place!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

First replaced four basket spring supports. Next tried Basket hub assembly ( which showed wear, but not total solution). Next replaced the rotation sensor that's on the stator. That finalized the issue.

3rd time replacing this part. The plastic grooves against the metal get wore down. Only 20$ to repair ! Take off the 3/8 bolt - center pops out. Remove screws pop out old piece and tighten new piece each side evenly.

This was a very easy cure for the problem,

Removed the center cover of the agitator with a flathead. Removed the nut of the agitator main cover. Had trouble taking the cover off because of the crud holding it down I wiggled it up gently alternating n,s and e,w until I eventually saw it separating from the bottom of the basket. Once it came off you could see how nasty the old hub assembly looked. Took the screws off the old hub assembly and removed it. Matched it up with the correct new hub assembly cause the kit comes with 2. Cleaned the shaft and that general area. Installed the new hub assembly, replaced the covers. Ran the drain and spin cycle and it worked with no problem. There are videos on YouTube that show you too. DO NOT try to pry the agitator cover if it won’t rise up easily. Be patient and it will come out.

I followed the video instructions provided. However, I used the hook on an old rod to pull the new rods through the corner holes in the top of the dryer. Simple invert the old rod and feed through the hole, hook onto the new rod and lift through the hole. It enabled me to lift the tub with one hand and put the plastic seat and new rod in place with the other hand. Too easy and sped up the repair job.

Removed agitator and basket hub parts and cleaned all parts of agitator then replace basket hub with new basket hub kit according to video ran washer but did not solve problem