Models > 10785-2 > Instructions

10785-2 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 10785-2
1 - 15 of 66
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
218 of 250 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
98 of 111 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Large burner would not get hot
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
68 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Coil Burned Out
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
Parts Used:
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W
  • Frank from St Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
60 of 91 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Two part burner, outer ring not working
The outer ring on the adjustable large haliant surface burner of our smooth top stove would not work. It would only work on the small (inner) size.

Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.

2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.

VERY SIMPLE.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • JERALD from PHENIX CITY, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
34 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Heating element burned out.
Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
Parts Used:
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W
  • LANCE from ORELAND, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
40 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
37 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
F2 error message on my GE oven indicated need for new heat sensor
After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Joseph from Brick, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Inner element of dual burner died
-Turn off breaker
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Van from Hyde Park, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Left rear element would not get hot.
FIRST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS THAT POWER THE COOKTOP!! Remove the cooktop from the counter by removing the screws from the mounting straps under the counter. Then remove the screws that hold the glass cooktop to the frame and lift off the glass top. Next lift up the bad element and unplug one wire from the bad element and plug it into the new element. Make sure to put it on the exact same terminal of the new element. Do this for all the wires. Remove the two mounting tabs from the old element and put them on the new element. Turn on circuit breakers and your done.
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • John from Hopewell Junction, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Center of large burner stopped working.
First and foremost, I am a 63 year old cooky baking GRANDMOTHER. I don't know anything about fixing appliances. I read the other repair stories pertaining to my burner and I thought, "why not."
It was a snap!

My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I removed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • paula from East Grand Rapids, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
oven shut down code F3
As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Richard from Jupiter, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
oven would not cook over 325 degrees and sometimes would burn your food.
I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • phil from forney, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
the oven handle broke during delivery
I remove the damage handle from the oven door,Then i install the new door handle with no problem.The tools i used was a hand nut driver and a phillip #3driver.
Parts Used:
Door Handle
  • william from new orleans, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven not heating
It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Joseph from Stuart, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 10785-2
1 - 15 of 66