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Refrigerator quit refrigerating
Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose. Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.
I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.
First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.
My refrigerator ran constantly and never got cold!
On a whim I looked into what it would take to fix my garage older 2nd fridge. I was thinking I needed a new seal, but when I checked the website there was a great troubleshooter. I would have never guessed that the defrost timer was what would cause it not to ever get cold. After a fairly simple repair the freezer is colder than ever and I actually had to turn it down. The only complication was the fridge was stuck in a defrost cycle so I had to reset the timer to get the refrigerator running. Thanks so much for a super helpful site for a do-it-yourselfer like me.
The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.
Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.
Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.
We removed the drawers and drawer cover (after we'd unloaded that part of the refrigerator!), and took the glass out of the drawer cover. Then we took the gaskets off the old cover and put them on the new one (that's what the screwdriver was for). It was easy because of the very helpful diagram of all the parts that I had used on the web site to order the part. Getting the part was amazingly fast - thank you!
1. Removed the cardboard cover. 2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor. 3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket. 4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor. 5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor. 6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor. 7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided. 8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block. 9. remounted the terminal block. 10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation. I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill. Done Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.
The refrigerator leaked water every time the ice maker filled.
The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!
