1069658480 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

1 removed bottom off old ice maker (3 hex screws) and ice drop shield (white plastic ice flips over into ice holder, old unit had different drop angle, see how described below, but I just musled it off the old unit) 2 removed "ice sensing bar off new ice maker and rotated mechanical sensor to on (leatherman tiny flat head) 3 removed end cap from new ice maker, then loosened to large screws (Phillips, leatherman) for motor unit cover. This allowed removal of ice drop shield on new unit (two tabs, one at each end). 4 removed ice drop shield and installed old ice dropshield on new unit 5 tightened two endcap screws (Phillips/leatherman) and reinstalled end cap 6 installed old bottom unit/tray on new ice maker (3 screws) 7 ensured wiring matched and routed plug properly 8 installed unit slides in 9 plugged unit to existing plug 10 installed old wiring shield (1 hex screw). Waited two hours to verify water valve worked properly, although IR codes did indicate "okay". Machine has been making ice and IR sensor shuts it off properly. So far a success. I have many spare parts if I need to do further repairs including a new water solenoid. Only saying it was a bit difficult because of the parts exchange, in actuality for me it was really easy.

The majority of the repair time was spent moving the items in the refrigerator off the glass top under which the track was to be placed. After that, the track was a cinch to put in its place (it's pretty idiot-proof). Perhaps the track wouldn't need replacement if it were made of something stronger than plastic, but I felt pretty handy doing this for my wife, and she's glad to have the hydrator drawers back in proper operation.

After watching videos how to replace went very easy.removed ice maker cut wires replaced switch put back together now working ok so far.

The parts were reasonably priced, shipped promptly and received in a couple of days. I reviewed a YouTube video before starting that was beneficial. Huge savings over retail repair service. A+ replacement parts house and I would highly recommend.

The rail just snapped into place with a light pressure. I worried it would require manipulation or heavy pressure and I would break the end while installing it.

In my case the defrost thermostat was not the problem. Not worth going through the hassle of checking the thermostat as I would have had to cut it out and test it in another freezer (while the food that was in the freezer was being stored elsewhere). I just ended up buying it and replacing it. So, like I said the defrost thermostat was NOT the issue. I ended up getting a drain tube heater strap, and have been keeping my eye on the fridge. It hasn't been long enough to say the strap fixed the problem, but all indications are pointing to that being the case.

I replaced the defrost relay folling instructions I read on the internet--and it still didn't work--So I replaced the compressor start relay which was easier than the defrost relay--it worked and the fridg is working good.

Followed the video instructions.

Watched the videos and made it simple.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

After the front panel was removed, disconnected the timer and installed new in reverse order. The provided instructions could be more straight forward, I spent more time reading it than the installation itself.