1068560 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

This would have been a less-than-5-minute repair except for one item. The water intake nossle was 180 degrees from the original part. As a result, the copper water inlet tube would not fit in the old space and still allow me to reattach the valve to the freezer chassie. I ended up leaving the valve hanging loose under the freezer. I spent most of my time trying to fit the valve into the old space.

Unplug freezer. Disconnect electrical connections (pull apart). Remove one screw holding the valve to the chassie. disconnect water inlet pipe and water outlet pipe from old valve.

Reconnect electrical connection to new valve. Reconnect in and out water hoses. Reconnect valve to chassie. Plug freezer back in. Finished

Everything works just fine !

First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.

removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.

We removed the drawers and drawer cover
(after we'd unloaded that part of the refrigerator!), and
took the glass out of the drawer cover. Then we took
the gaskets off the old cover and put them on the new
one (that's what the screwdriver was for).
It was easy because of the very helpful diagram of all
the parts that I had used on the web site to order the
part.
Getting the part was amazingly fast - thank you!

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.

The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!

Remove old parts, install old bar to new caps and snap in place. So easy even a caveman can do it!

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.