10656826604 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

it snapped right in easy .

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Took off refrigerator door from top hinge and lifted off. A little difficulty getting worn out parts off (needed dremel to drill out worn plastic); replaced with new parts, the screw head holding on the part was starting to be worn as well but still worked. If I hadn't got to this repair soon the bottom of the door aluminum would have total worn out as it is, it has a deep groove but not noticeable. The new cams also force the door closed tight instead of slightly ajar at times.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

When I took the pan out of the box, it was not the exact same as the one I had. But it fit perfect. The only hard part was the fact that it looked so good I had to clean the entire fridge side. (Smile)

Took out the old one and put in the new one. No tolls required. It did give me the opportunity to clean the back wall of the refrigerator.

because one of mine got broken somehow over the years and I ordered an extra door bin because I had space for one and needed the extra room for more small jars of condiments etc. I also ordered an extra shelf for more storage room for food dishes etc. instead oJust placed them in position on the door and on the back grid.
Simple and done !!!

Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.

First i unpluged unit from wall then removed the ice maker front door ,removed side cover with nutdriver 1/4,pressed the in on the the two releas clips on the botom of the unit then pulled the unit out the disconnected the cable.

I removed the cardboard back then using a nut driver removed the three mounting screws, removed the old fan/motor and installed the new one, installing the three screws and replacing the cardboard cover.

My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

removed old shelf support after taking out the glass and support. New part was a perfect fit that was a "shap: to put in.

removed old bracket and replaced with new one - two screws and it was done - simple

I removed the cap from the filter pushed a lever and removed fliter. I replaced the old filter, removed the caps on the new one and slid it into channel after replacing the outer cap. I removed water from the spigot for 4 mins. and it was ready to go. I pushed the reset button to get the green light to come on.

Found several videos online showing this process. It was difficult to separate the main water line input module from the original water valve, but persistence paid off and I was able to separate them using a large flat head screwdriver by twisting in grove on the back side. Putting in the new valve system was really easy once you cut the old screw nut sections off the lines. The output lines are different sizes so you can't mess that part up. Just be careful when dealing with the 3rd line that is the same as one of the output lines in size. I just marked mine with a permanent marker so I didn't get them confused or swapped around. Another problem was the two pieces did not fit together like I expected because of design differences. I was able to mount them one above the other by using one of the screw holes for the cardboard back cover to mount the main water input module. Everything works fine now. No leaks.