10642 - Instructions

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

I just removed the old seal cleaned the area and simply installed the new seal. The instructions were easy to follow and project was completed in less than 1 hour.

I found the model number of the Briggs & Stratton engine on the inside of the engine housing. Ordered a new starter-rewind unit, as the old cord broke and the thing was well worn. The instructions were clear enough, but to get the old starter off I had to drill out four rivets, which just spin around when you try. I used a hacksaw, chisel, pliers, whatever worked on each rivet; this took a while. When they were finally removed, the new starter pull unit was relatively easy to install with the small nuts and bolts provided. On the Yard Machines log splitter, putting back the engine housing is quite tricky; you have to jostle the thing into place, get the pull handle above the cover and line up the bolt holes.

First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me access to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.

The star device that i recived was a little different, wasn't black like the original a recived a grey one and little bit smaller than the original but it fit perfect, and my frige is working good since i replaced.

I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back portion to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.

Two bins were cracked. I simply unhooked the broken bins and put the new ones in their place.

Replaced the entire unit (fan and motor). Would have rated this repair as "Really Easy", but found it a little difficult because of large hands.

There was a loud noise coming from the fridge - we ordered the new part it came a lot sooner than we excepted and we replaced it in about 20 minutes- the hardest part was my husband getting his hand in there to put the screws in- but a very easy fix.

!st removed the doors from the unit, then laid them on the floor. Next, on a long side of the door, cut through the gasket so I could pull it off the door in one piece without separating the door liner from the outer door. Then, starting at a corner, started pushing the stiff black part of the replacement gasket between the liner and outer door, making sure to push it completely under as I went. Used a thick flat bladed screwdriver to carefully help push the final corner section in. Repeated on both doors, rehung, plugged in and done!

Power outage and both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling. When you unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in the compressor would run for a few seconds then kick off. Replaced the combination start device and works great again. Third time I have used the site with positive results. Fast shipping and right part every time to fix that fixed my problem.

The first thing I did was to determine what my problem was. I was hearing a clicking sound and
noticed the compressor was trying to start.
I removed the screws that held the back cover on
which took 5 minutes. Once it was off I could see the compressor and the start switch which was attched to the side with a clip. I took the needle nose pliers and popped this off and pulled the switch out, disconnected the wire plug and that was it. To replace it I unplugged the capacitor from the old switch and plugged it into the new one then installed it the same way the old one came out.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.