10641159212 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 10641159212
[Viewing 11 of 11]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer with Humidity Control
PartSelect #: PS11739119
Manufacturer #: WP2188656
The crisper drawer (Crisper Pan, Refrigerator Crisper Drawer) with humidity control is meant to keep your vegetables and fruit as fresh as possible by allowing you to regulate the humidity levels with...
$79.56
In Stock
Lower Door Closing Cam
PartSelect #: PS11739042
Manufacturer #: WP2182179
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack ...
$7.70
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer With Handle
PartSelect #: PS11739122
Manufacturer #: WP2188664
This OEM, clear convertible meat drawer can be used to store meats or vegetables and is designed for the lower portion of your refrigerator, generally. It has its own cold air duct to allow cold air f...
$56.48
In Stock
Refrigerator Slide-Out Shelf with Glass
PartSelect #: PS11751713
Manufacturer #: WPW10276348
This is an OEM glass shelf for a variety of models of refrigerator. This shelf assembly features an approximately 18 inch long and 18-inch-wide white plastic frame and its inner glass pane, and is des...
$154.28
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$38.37
In Stock
Gallon Door Bin - Clear
PartSelect #: PS11757236
Manufacturer #: WPW10710203
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators.
The door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
$42.88
In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$30.89
In Stock
Refrigerator Shelf Frame with Glass
PartSelect #: PS11751711
Manufacturer #: WPW10276341
This is a glass shelf for models of refrigerator. This part acts as a cover, a shelf, and a set of drawer slides all-in-one. This part includes a white plastic frame that doubles as drawer slides for ...
$146.74
In Stock
Crisper Cover with Glass
PartSelect #: PS4082908
Manufacturer #: W10508993
This part is also known as a shelf frame. This drawer cover is for refrigerators.
Drawer cover has rail brackets under the cover that hold the drawer and allow the drawer to slide in and out on th...
$138.08
In Stock
Refrigerator Shelf Glass
PartSelect #: PS11731733
Manufacturer #: W10864399
This is the glass panel only. The frame is sold separately.
$123.31
In Stock
Snack Pan - Clear
PartSelect #: PS11740301
Manufacturer #: WP2309517
The snack pan in your refrigerator stores food and other items that you intend to keep cold. It is the top drawer in the refrigerator and is also the smallest of the three drawers in this model. It is...
$83.48
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11757021
Manufacturer #: WPW10661886
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
$12.71
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 10641159212
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Linda
February 2, 2023
THE LIGHTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE FRIDGE FLICKER WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN
For model number 10641159212
Hi Linda,
Thank you for your question. For this situation, if you replace the LED light board in the freezer section, it should stop the lights from flickering in the rest of the refrigerator. The part number listed under your model number for the LED light board is PS12070918. If you would like to place an order for it, please call our customer service line and anyone will be happy to assist you. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Common Symptoms of the 10641159212
[Viewing 19 of 19]Door won’t open or close
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Clicking sound
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Leaking
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Frost buildup
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Door Sweating
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Will Not Start
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker not making ice
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Touchpad does not respond
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
track of the pan become broken
Buy a new crisper pan,slide out old one ,slide in new one
Parts Used:
-
Darrell from Cedar Bluff, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
424 of 447 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Drawer guides broken
Simply pulled out old drawer and replaced with new one. This broken drawer really bothered my wife so this simple repair earned me alot of points at home. Lord knows i can use all the extra points i can get. Thanks for the quick shipment of the part. 2 days from time of call to part on my door step. Thanks again
Parts Used:
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Paula from Chesterfield, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
317 of 410 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Parts Used:
-
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
155 of 181 people
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