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Upper Drum Glide
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Upper Drum Glide Specifications
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Replacing your Frigidaire Dryer Upper Drum Glide
What I would add to previous reviews is to pull the front off or the little acces grill in back and check to see what kind of belt you have. According to the model #, It showed the wide flat belt when in fact I had the smaller ribbed belt. Glad I checked before ordering.
A few things that will make your life easier is once you have the old upper guide/seal removed, put down the glue then use several med sized plastic spring clamps to hold the seal in place while the glue sets up, (@ 20-30 min). Their cheap and you should have some around anyway. When replacing the seals I would go ahead and replace the belt too. It's cheap and if your machine is 5+ yrs old probably is worn. Total cost of repair was about $60 (inc shipping). Took about 1 hr 20 min total time. Most of that time was scrapping the old seal material/ glue off the dryer front. Actual disassembly and repair maybe 1/2 hour. Other little tip is the clips for the lid of dryer is to use a flat screwdriver and gently push straight in until it's compressed enough to release the lid, it will pop up when pushed in far enough. That one took me a while to figure out.
Thanks to Part Select for such a helpful site. My dryer is like new again.
Replacing the belt was a very good idea, though as mentioned, the drum support bearing is just a "nice to do" - not necessary, but it gives you the excuse to re-grease it (I used a thick Molly impregnated grease from my motorcycle).
The only other advice I can give is that I used a chisel to scrape off the old felt - it came off in very little time, and I didn't end up needing to really do much cleaning of the drum afterwards. Just use a sharp one you're not afraid to dull - it'll be metal-on-metal contact.
Using the spring-loaded clamps that you can get from the hardware store was also a huge help - it just needs to keep the upper glide stuck to the drum for the 30 minutes for the glue to cure - I used 6, but 3 would work. The bottom seal doesn't need them as the felt will tend to stick to the drum when the glue is applied.
You might not NEED to replace the lower seal, but I'd suggest it. It's cheap enough, and this job is "not fun" enough that it only adds a few minutes total - good insurance that you do a complete job.
You also might want to get some aluminum foil tape and re-tape your blower extension tube - mine was ripped off from moving from house to house over the years.
William from Boise, ID
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
DISCONNECT ELECTRICITY and GAS LINES
1.popped top by pushing and prying at front /top clips about 2-3in. in from side edges. lifted it off
2. removed the front panel by removing the 2 top front screws from the inside, then the two lower screws from the front after removing the small white plastic hole covers. disconnected the multiplug electric connector top right. set panel aside.
3.remove small back panel.and loosened belt.(observe belt path and idle pulley assy.
4. lifted drum and slid it out the front.
5. using socket, removed rear plastic bearing housing and replaced the same. be careful of observing the small ball bearing and the small piece on outside back panel. replace the same. you wil probably need a second set of hands to hold the piece on the outside when screwing in the screws from the inside.
6. unscew the "bearing" from the rear of the drum and replace with new one.(the screws are self-tapping and go in HARD!!)
7. apply lubricant liberally to plastic bearing holder
8. place new belt around drum(rubber side against drum cloth side out.
9. idle pulley assy. is removed by removing spring and just sliding assy out of holder. replace with new
10. replace drum and belt
11. take front panel and remove top drum glide and lower basket seal.( i marked where the two seal/glide come together with a marker )
12. scrape and remove as much felt and possible. I then used "goo gone" to remove all the glue. clean well and using the provided high temp adhesive reattached glide and seal.
13. reassemble and enjoy your NEW? dryer
When the parts arrived it only took about 30 minutes to install them all because the glue removal, lint removal, and parts removal had been done another day. I should add that I am a 66 year old woman and found the job quite simple. Excellent web site. Thanks to others for the step-by-step instructions. Oh, to hold the Drum Glide and felt in place while the glue cured, clothes pins work great. I let the glue cure overnight to make sure that it was really secure.
At the same time removed drum and parts in the back of the dryer for ball bearing. great, expeditious help from your store. Thank you
1. Unplug the dryer
2. Use the putty knife to open the top of the dryer, there are two spring clips to depress by placing the putty knife in the gap between the top of the dryer and the front panel. About four inches from either side...
3. Remove the two screws that go from the side panels into the front, one screw on either side of the drum about 8 inches from the top, phillips head screws..
4. The face will come off and the drum will drop a bit, no big deal.
5. Disconnect the electrical connection in the top of the dryer. There is a harness connector at the top right of the dryer and one tie wrap holding it loosely .
6. Remove the old seals... Not the general location of the top seal and mark the ends with a sharpy on the lip of the dryer face... This way you know where to reinstall the new seal. You have to glue it back on and won't get too many chances to glue it down.
7. Let the work begin. Remove the old glue and residual seal material from the lip. I used a sander in some places, a razor blade in a holder in some, and a wire brush in a drill in others. The wire brush did the best job but wouldn't reach everywhere.
8. After you've cleaned the lip off. Begin by putting some glue, liberally, around the location for the top seal with the plastic pieces on it. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place after gluing. You'll be turning the face over to put the bottom seal on and need it to be in place firmly.
9. Put some more glue on the lip and being placing the lower seal. Use a spring clamp every 12-18 inches to hold the seal and make good contact. I pulled my seal tight as I put it in place. Not too tight to compress but tight enough that I had 4 inches to cut off after I made it all the way around.
10. Leave the clamps on the seal for 10 - 15 minutes. Longer if you can. Once you replace the front of the dryer, all those fumes are in the dryer and any clothes that you dry right away will smell like that if you don't let the glue cure. I didn't have a lot of time so I waited 15 minutes and replaced the dryer front, then I ran the dryer on low heat for one complete cycle to help the glue setup.
11. Replacing the front is just reverse operation of removal. Be sure to pay attention to the tabs at the bottom of the front dryer panel. They are attached to the lower dryer panel and you need to lower the front panel over them so they'll hold it tightly.
12. You'll need to slightly lift the dryer drum to get it to line up with the new seals on the front panel. It may be a slightly tighter fit with the new seals, you'll know when you have it in correctly. Press the front panel back inward and replace the two screws you removed earlier. Reconnect the wiring harness and replace the tie wrap you cut. Put it back to similar tightness that it was when you cut it out earlier.
13. Lower the top panel and snap it back down into the front panel.
14. Plug it back in and test it.
There are steps I've overlooked I'm sure... Such as thoroughly cleaning the lint trap in the front panel while you have it removed... and vacuuming out the dryer itself with the front off. Not to mention examining the other wear items on the dryer such as the belt and roller assembly. Or the rear bearing and carrier. Did I mention Cleaning out the dryer? All that lint in the duct work hinders your dryers ability to operate effectively.
Best of luck.
I suggest watching the installation video for the rear bearing replacement I found on this website. It showed me where the screws are and the trick for lifting up the back of the tub using the belt to disengage the rear bearing. It was a snap.
Manufacturer Part Number: 5303937139
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