Washer Electronic Control Board WPW10525364

This is the motor controller used to control the motor for washing and spinning clothes. I was washing a load of heavy towels and other similar clothes on the whites cycle on my Maytag (really made by Whirlpool), 7-year old front loading washer. On this washer, this takes about 2 hours to run on the cycle. I had gone over to my mother's house to fix some appliance issues for her. I come back over to my house and my washer should have been finished over an hour earlier but instead it had the number 9 on it like it still had 9 minutes to go but wasn't doing anything. I assumed maybe the electricity blinked and interrupted its cycle. I disconnected and reconnected power a few times and it tried to start over but one thing I noticed was that the inside of the washer would never turn anymore. Also the door was locked and wouldn't unlock by clicking the button, it would just make a muffled electromagnetic noise. So I had to manually unlock the door to get the clothes out. I found out how to check diagnostic codes and the 2 on there had something to do with door locks. Previously to that, I thought perhaps a belt was broke or the motor was burned up. However since the locking mechanism was acting up and the diagnostic codes both pointed to that I focused on that. Also, a year or so ago the locking mechanism wouldn't unlock and I had to manually unlock and then reconnected and cleaned the wiring connectors. Also, I saw that power going to the motor is controlled by a switch on the locking mechanism closing when the locking mechanism is engaged in lock mode. I did some meter tests and the locking mechanism itself seemed to be okay. The voltages going to the locking and unlocking control seemed sort of questionable though. However, since it was one of the cheaper parts to replace and cleaning the reinserting the connectors didn't fix anything, I replaced it. However, I still had the same issue. So then I looked at the main controller that sends voltages to the door look since the voltages coming from it seemed weird. However, replacing it didn't fix anything either. Finally, I took the motor controller out from the bottom left of the washer and the inside of the white plaster container hold the circuit board was black. I also checked the ohms between the 3 lines on the 3 phase motor to make sure they all matched and also that they didn't have any shorts to ground and the motor measured okay. So then I replaced the motor controller and it was pretty easy to reinstalled and that fixed my issue. I had also painted the bottom of the was washer when the controller was taken out since it had some areas starting to rust. I guess when the main controller goes through its diagnostics, it locks the washer, then spins the washer tub and then unlocks. Since the motor controller wasn't responding, the main controller erroneously assumed that the locking mechanism had an issue and wasn't closing the switch that sends power to the motor controller. However, once I replaced the right circuit board everything works fine. I was able to order everything I needed successfully from the company and get a new part with standard shipping about 2 days later.