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YMEDZ600TE2
YMEDZ600TE2 Maytag - Overview
Sections of the YMEDZ600TE2
[Viewing 4 of 4]
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Dryer Thermal Fuse
PartSelect #: PS11741460
Manufacturer #: WP3392519
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse ...
$19.63
In Stock
Dryer Heating Element
PartSelect #: PS11741416
Manufacturer #: WP3387747
When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside ...
$94.64
In Stock
Lint Filter
PartSelect #: PS1491676
Manufacturer #: W10120998
The filter collects lint during the drying cycle. This filter is 12 1/2 inches wide and 10 1/2 inches deep. Replacing the lint filter is an easy repair which requires no tools. When replacing the lint...
$61.46
In Stock
Idler Pulley
PartSelect #: PS334244
Manufacturer #: 279640
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
$26.95
In Stock
Dryer Repair Kit
PartSelect #: PS373088
Manufacturer #: 4392067
This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
$53.59
In Stock
Dryer Drum Support Roller
PartSelect #: PS11752609
Manufacturer #: WPW10314173
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
$22.69
In Stock
Thermostat, Internal-Bias
PartSelect #: PS11746740
Manufacturer #: WP8577274
The internal-bias thermistor (Thermistor, Dryer Thermister, Dryer Thermistor) prevents the dryer from overheating by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. It is l...
$47.74
In Stock
Roller Support Tri-Ring
PartSelect #: PS11755850
Manufacturer #: WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$13.42
In Stock
Thrust Washer
PartSelect #: PS11740482
Manufacturer #: WP233520
This genuine OEM washer has a 3/4 inch outside diameter. This thrust washer can be used on most makes and models of dryers. A complete list of compatible dryers is available below. The washer is found...
$7.95
In Stock
Leveling Foot
PartSelect #: PS1609293
Manufacturer #: 49621
If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, check that the leveling legs are even. To ensure that the washer is firmly on the ground using all four legs, adjust the legs so...
$11.40
In Stock
Door Catch Kit
PartSelect #: PS2162263
Manufacturer #: LA-1003
This door catch kit is designed for use in dryers. This is an authentic OEM replacement part. This catch assembly ensures the door of your appliance will close, and remain closed. It allows your appli...
$32.34
In Stock
Heating Element Connection Wire Kit
PartSelect #: PS334206
Manufacturer #: 279457
This kit is used for electric clothes dryers, and it comes with a yellow wire nut.
$11.06
In Stock
Questions And Answers for YMEDZ600TE2
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Common Symptoms of the YMEDZ600TE2
[Viewing 13 of 13]Noisy
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Too hot
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Door won’t close
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Not Heating
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Marks left on clothes
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Won’t Start
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Touchpad does not respond
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Drum Not Spinning
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Will Not Start
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Will not agitate
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Burning smell
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Heat stays on after drum has stopped
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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Parts Used:
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ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2964 of 3337 people
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No heat but would run otherwise
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and did ... Read more n't take but 15-20 minutes.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and did ... Read more n't take but 15-20 minutes.
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Parts Used:
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Dana from Grassvally, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
875 of 947 people
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Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in a
... Read more
n open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
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Parts Used:
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Alan from Brooksville, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
492 of 575 people
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