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YKEMC307KB01
YKEMC307KB01 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Overview
Sections of the YKEMC307KB01
[Viewing 9 of 9]
Manuals & Care Guides for YKEMC307KB01
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Inner Door Glass
PartSelect #: PS11742543
Manufacturer #: WP4449259
This inner door glass is a heat resistant part that fits into a stove, oven, wall oven, cooktop, or range as the inner glass panel of the appliance door. The glass panel allows you to see the items be...
$112.25
In Stock
Microwave Turntable Tray
PartSelect #: PS12728515
Manufacturer #: W11373838
This genuine OEM microwave turntable tray is a circular plate made of glass and has a diameter of approximately 16 inches. It rotates food in your microwave oven, so that your food cooks evenly. It is...
$57.88
In Stock
Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS11749669
Manufacturer #: WPW10179152
This oven rack is chrome in color and is approximately 24.76 inches wide by 15.78 inches deep. If your old oven rack is damaged, you should consider replacing it. Many of our customers have determined...
$84.88
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.79
In Stock
Oven Halogen Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11742576
Manufacturer #: WP4452164
This halogen light bulb is a type of lamp that uses a halogen gas mixture for better lighting quality and longevity. It is an authentic OEM replacement bulb designed for use in ovens and ranges. It is...
$45.90
In Stock
Limit Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11747249
Manufacturer #: WP9759243
An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and mai...
$93.52
In Stock
Temperature Sensor
PartSelect #: PS11748765
Manufacturer #: WPW10131825
The temperature sensor measures the temperature inside the oven. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, is not heating enough when baking, or simply will not start, you could have a faulty tempe...
$89.97
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
In Stock
Exterior Door Glass - Stainless
PartSelect #: PS3495223
Manufacturer #: W10401225
Exterior portion only. This is NOT the entire door assembly.
$298.46
In Stock
Microwave Halogen Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11754756
Manufacturer #: WPW10440740
This is a small light bulb.
$32.11
In Stock
Temperature Probe
PartSelect #: PS11747165
Manufacturer #: WP9755542
Also known as a meat probe.
$92.83
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11741605
Manufacturer #: WP3400832
This screw is sold individually.
$5.42
In Stock
Questions And Answers for YKEMC307KB01
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Elizabeth
January 21, 2023
I was looking for the measurements for the cabinet to house this unit. There doesn't seem to be anything in the manual. Help please ??
For model number YKEMC307KB01
Hello Elizabeth, Thank you for your inquiry. We have researched the model number that you have provided and show that there are two sets of cutout dimensions available from the manufacturer. It shows a 42 7/16 height and a 23 inch depth with a width of either 27 inches or 30 inches depending on the cabinet you have. We hope this helps.
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Common Symptoms of the YKEMC307KB01
[Viewing 14 of 14]Little to no heat when baking
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Tray won’t turn
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Oven not heating evenly
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No heat
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Door not closing properly
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Won’t turn on
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Door won’t close
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Will not program
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Noisy
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Broke the glass panel inside the oven door -- dropped a baking dish on the glass!
Easily removed the door from the oven by releasing clips attached to the door hinge -- very nicely engineered. Removed about 6 philips head screws to allow the door assembly to be taken apart for access to the glass. Lifted out the broken glass, cleaned the inside of the door, installed the new glass, reassembled the door (a two minute
... Read more
project), and reattached the door to the oven. Cleaning the inside of the door took longer than the actual repair!
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Parts Used:
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Robert from Wildwood, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
231 of 286 people
found this instruction helpful.
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No heat after cleaning oven
This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your pow
... Read more
er cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.
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Parts Used:
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Frederick from St. Louis, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
106 of 117 people
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My microwave began suddenly making a loud humming noise while cooking food.
My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the no
... Read more
ise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion
Caution:
The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:
“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!
7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.
8. You
Caution:
The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:
“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!
7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.
8. You
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Lindsay from Nampa, ID
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
126 of 252 people
found this instruction helpful.
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