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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than...
This screen door grille serves as the top cover for the lint filter in select dryers, helping to protect clothing from snagging and ensuring efficient lint collection. Made from durable plastic, it is...
This part is the replacement motor pulley for your dryer. The motor pulley allows the dryer belt to run straight while the dryer is operating. If your motor pulley is damaged, your dryer may not tumbl...
This dryer terminal and wire kit is designed to replace damaged or worn wiring that connects to the terminal block, helping restore proper electrical function and heat performance. The kit includes re...
This lint screen outlet housing is designed to securely hold the lint screen within the dryer's exhaust duct, helping to prevent lint from escaping into the drum or vent system. By maintaining proper ...
Presenting the Whirlpool Dryer Wire Harness, a genuine OEM part that ensures the proper functioning of selected Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef clothes dryers. K...
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Veronica
December 3, 2024
I need replacement door hinges for my dryer door
For model number WED5100HC3
Hi Veronica,
Thank you for your question. The part number for the door hinge is PS16620360. They are sold individually. We hope this helps!
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. A
... Read morelso, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have
... Read moreled to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.
Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch
