VISR208DT8WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

Slid off the old START knob, then pushed on the new START knob.

I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.

I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.

My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.

My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.

I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com

Removed the damaged knob and replaced it with the new knob. Very ease

The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It required a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.

Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the knobs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!

ordered part on line--received in mail 2 days later--
just pushed on in 2 seconds--job done

how much easier can it get??????

followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut

First removed front washer access panel.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire connector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.

I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.

Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.
That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.
Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.
Installation is reverse of removal.

I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.

Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lid
Disconnected power from wall
Disconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motor
Uncwrewed clamp on drain hose
Removed top lifts off easliy
With help released Washing drum assy from hangers
Slid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machine
Pulled agatator up and off of hub
Remove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socket
Pull off cap
Removed Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nut
Removed inner washing drum
Turned over Entire Assy (motor up)
Removed belt (slid off)
Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drum
Lifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny out
Reaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy.
There were service instruction under the front control panel.

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!

1.Pulled the agitator out. Unscrewed the top nut, which was a little tricky to break loose since it had been in place for over 10 years. Pulled out the entire washing cylinder to unscrew and replace the hub. Not bad but you need to take out the inner tub and that requires doing a little extra unscrewing and prying.

I ordered a selector knob and it was delivered in a short amount of time. I wasn't sure if it was the right one when I ordered it, but my husband just put it right on the dryer. He said it was perfect. Thank you PartSelect!