The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the...Read more washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
The agitator coupler connects the agitator to the agitator shaft. Common symptoms of a damaged coupler include: a grinding sound during the wash cycle, the washer refusing to agitate or spin, or the washing machine shakes and moves during the wash cycle. Unplug the washer and pull the agitator straight up. Remove the bolt that holds the c...Read moreoupler onto the shaft of the transmission and pull the coupler off. Be sure to clean any dirt, rust, or residue off the transmission spline grooves, and make sure the grooves on the agitator splines are clean and undamaged. We recommend using the gasket and bolt that come with the replacement coupling.
The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drain. If this parts cracks or becomes damaged it will leak during the drain cycle of your wash and you may find water on the floor. To access t...Read morehe hose, you will need to move the washer away from the wall to get to the back of the appliance. There will be two screws holding it in place that will need to be removed.
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To acces...Read mores the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an ac...Read moretual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault.
NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cy...Read morecle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner s...Read moreide of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
This part is a replacement socket rod support for your washer. The socket rod support is found at the top of the washer frame in the front part of the washer. It supports the suspension rod, so the rod can prevent the tub from shaking too much during operation. If your washer is shaking excessively or emitting an odd sound during use, it ...Read moremay be because the rod support is broken, and the suspension rod is not able to do its job. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
This part is the replacement inner tub base hub for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 15 inches in diameter. The inner tub base hub fits between the wash tub and the spin basket, and it holds the spin basket on the gear case shaft. The main reason you would want to replace the hub, is if the washer will not agitate, or...Read more if you notice excessive noise or shaking when the washer is in use. Be sure to disconnect the washer from the water and power sources before you begin this repair. This part is sold individually and is and OEM part from the manufacturer.
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
We may have answered a similar question already! Search questions and answers left by others using simple keywords like "fit", "broken", "easy", or "quality" to find questions that match.
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Sort by:
Prev
1
Next
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Frank - For model number VBXR1090DBWW
July 25, 2023
The washer goes through all of the cycles, fills with water, but does not agitate. It pumps the water out and then goes through the rinse cycle and spins before shutting off. I have replaced the capacitor, and the coupling.
Hi Frank, thank you for the great question. We recommend checking the lid switch, part number PS5135698. Remove the switch, test it, and replace it if needed. If the lid switch is faulty, the washer may halt during certain cycles. We hope this information is useful!
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!View More
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
broken dampening strap and loose agitator
286 of 308 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
molly from laguna niguel, CA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Socket set
first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u rem
... Read moreove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.
I placed both hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart, gave a quick jerk, and seperated the agitator from the coupling. With the agitator removed, use a socket and ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coupling to the spline. Remove the old coupling and slide the new one over the spline. Lightly tap on the coupling if necessary. I
... Read morensert the bolt with the ratchet and slide the agitator back over the coupling and you are done.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k
88 of 92 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
douglas from danby, VT
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Socket set
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts
... Read more list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
My Orders
