VBXR1060T5WB Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

First removed front washer access panel.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire connector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.

Remove the plastic piece that holds the timer knob - remove knob - unscrew front panel from top of washer and pull off - remove screws from timer and replace with new and reassemble. Toughest part was removing the timer knob

I first removed the screws from the top of the washer electric panel. Then pulled it forward. I then removed the plastic clip from behind the knob. Then I removed the screw holding the timer in place. And then removed the one single wire and the connecting plug. I then plug both wire assemblies in to the new one, slid both ears under the brackets and inserted the one screw. Then just put the screws back in the top. It works great!!!!!

It was real easy......
1. removed the 4 phillips head screws from the top of the control panel. The control panel is hinged and pulls forward towards you
2. Holding the Control Panel Chassis at an angle look between the knob and the backing ring for a clear c clip. (Note: you are looking for the open end not the closed end of the clip) Take a small flat blade screwdriver, place it between the timer knob and backing and press down until the clip slides off the spindle.
3. Remove the knob.
4. Before removing the wiring on the timer assy unplug the power cord from the wall socket.
5. Locate the green grounding wire on the timer assy and remove it with pliers.
6. Remove the main control connector by squeezing the tabs.
7. There was only 1 hexhead screw holding my assy to the chassis, remove and carefully pull up the left side of the assy just enough for the timer spindle to exit the chassis.

At this point its just the reverse order to connect the new assy.

The hardest part of this repair was actually getting the panel off to get at the timer itself. You need a special type of screwdriver with a torc head, (not sure about spelling) ( looks like a phillips head but has an extra "prong") . After that it was as easy as unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. piece of cake.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

opened back panel. removed old timer. replaced new. 5 min. TIP. BEFORE PUTTING KNOB ON SHAFT, INSTALL PLASTIC RETAINER CLIP ON TO KNOB SLOTS THEN PUT KNOB ON SHAFT AS FAT AS IT WILL GO AND THEN WITH A WIDE BLADE SCREWDRIVER PUSH THE RETAINER CLIP ONTO THE SHAFT UNTIL IT IS SEATED. SO SIMPLE AN IDIOT COULD DO IT. HOWEVER, I HAPPEN TO BE MECHANICALLY INCLINED. IT MIGHT TAKE A NOVICE ABOUT 5 MINUTES LONGER, BUT YOU CAN DO IT.