SWNNC2SP113TW02 Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

I had some sweaking and then burning followed. I came to find the belt had burnt and stopped my washer from working. Ordered a belt and replaced. Washer worked for one week. Squeaking and burning again. Belt was still intact, thank goodness. Beleive it is another pulley part for the washer. Might order another part. Overall the fix was good, but had another issue.

1) removed front panels from washing machine
2) removed water pump. Three small torque bit screws and (2) hoses.
3) removed motor (because I realized that the belt tensioner also needed work as it was siezed) removed (4) bolts and an electical connector.
4) repaired tensioner by taking apart and cleaning bearing surface. Needed snap ring plyers to take apart.
5) put motor back in
6) replaced belt
7) put water pump back on
8) intalled front panels back on washer

Remove five screws holding the door hinge to the dryer frame. Remove the plastic cover over the screw holes on the opposite side. Remove the hinge from the door by removing two phillips head screws from the door edge and two phillips head screws from inside the door. Mount the hinge on the opposite side of the door. Attach to door to the opposite side with the five screws you removed previously. Remove and replace the the hinge cover and handle cover by popping out the plastic trim piece on the bottom and loosening the top trim pieces. Hook the replacement covers to the top trim pieces and pop the bottom piece back in. Replace the handle by removing two screws and put the new piece in. Tighten two screws and you're done

After turning on the machine set to the spin cycle and acertaining that the problem was not a switch or the motor the lower cover was removed (Two sheet metal hex head screws)with appropriate socket. The failure of the belt was self-evident, having sprayed itself in granuals, the belt itself having parted with easy removal.
A search of the internet produced the order for drive belt, which arrived in a timely manner trough Fedex.

Replacing the belt was the most labor intensive part of the process. No mirror being available a CD was placed in the base of the machine in order to view what fasteners (Three torx head) fasened the pump to the motor assembly. Removal of the pump was necessary in order to replace the belt.

The removal of the fasteners required that three holes (120* angular spacing, 1/2" diameter, located on the pump fastener bosses) be drilled in the machine base in order to
remove and replace. This required setting the machine on its side. (Tell the engineers to put an inspection plate there in order to negate having to drill the holes. Thankx.) Pump assembly was lowered off driveshaft and belt replaced. Tensioner set on belt after pump assembly fit to driveshaft and torx fasteners replaced and tightened. Machine powered up, checked for function. In use. Lower cover replaced. I'll be using your buisness for parts again, no doubt.

it was easy

I opened the bottom and found the belt had broke in half. i ordered a new belt from Maytag online and found a you tube video that showed exactle how to change it. the only thing i had to do afterwards was tighten the tensioner.eazy pezy!