STE22AA-3 Maytag Range - Overview
Sections of the STE22AA-3
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Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch
PartSelect #: PS11750107
Manufacturer #: WPW10196405
This manufacturer-certified drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements and catches drips and spills from the cookw...
$11.77
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit
PartSelect #: PS340571
Manufacturer #: 330031
The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to...
$16.07
In Stock
Economy Y-frame Surface Unit - 8"
PartSelect #: PS11757466
Manufacturer #: WPY04000035
This electric range economy Y-frame surface element measures eight inches and has five turns. It carries 2100 watts and is used on some electric ranges. The center medallion is chrome.
$80.82
In Stock
Economy Y-frame Surface Unit - 6"
PartSelect #: PS11757467
Manufacturer #: WPY04000036
This electric range economy Y-frame surface element measures six inches and has three turns. It carries 1250 watts and is used on some electric ranges. The center medallion is chrome.
$74.08
In Stock
Bake Element
PartSelect #: PS11757494
Manufacturer #: WPY07409600
The bake element provides heat to the oven. If you notice that your oven is not heating enough, or not heating evenly, you may need to replace the bake element. This bake element is 17 inches long. Th...
$75.21
Special Order
Bake Element - 2400W 250V
PartSelect #: PS11757495
Manufacturer #: WPY07409802
This element is used on 24" ranges that have a screw in connection.
$82.35
Special Order
Broil Element (16 Inch long x 8.5 Inch wide)
PartSelect #: PS11757496
Manufacturer #: WPY07431100
This broil element, also known as an electric oven broil element, is used in ovens. Located on the roof of your oven, the element provides and supplies the heat needed for the broil function. It is 8 ...
No Longer Available
Element
PartSelect #: PS11757499
Manufacturer #: WPY07565600
Introducing the genuine OEM bake element by Whirlpool, a small but key component responsible for the heat supply necessary for baking inside your oven. Distinguished by its robust quality and precisio...
$81.67
In Stock
Electric Oven Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11757425
Manufacturer #: WPY00206900
The temperature of this thermostat ranges from 150 degrees Fahrenheit to 550 degrees Fahrenheit. When your oven is baking, this thermostat is allowing for 17 amps of energy and when your oven is broil...
No Longer Available
Broil Element
PartSelect #: PS12594902
Manufacturer #: 0088772
Broiler element, upper oven
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for STE22AA-3
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Common Symptoms of the STE22AA-3
[Viewing 3 of 3]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I
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placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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Parts Used:
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Phillip from Pekin, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
15 of 16 people
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Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the
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Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
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Parts Used:
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JOAN from Pickford, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 9 people
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Electric burner on stove would not work
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca
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ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
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Parts Used:
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Ronald from Fresno, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
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