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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evapo...
The crisper drawer is clear plastic and is located inside the refrigerator. It is used to store fruits and vegetables at a certain temperature to ensure food will last longer. If your drawer is cracke...
This handle end cap kit, also known as a door handle end cap, includes both the upper and lower door handle caps for freezers and fresh food compartment handles. Used in refrigerators and freezers, th...
This is a bimetal defrost thermostat for your refrigerator. It stops the fridge from overheating during the defrost cycle by protecting the evaporator. This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperatu...
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
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Gerald
January 24, 2020
Water is pooling underneath the crisper drawers. How do i fix this?
For model number ST18PKXHW00
Hi Gerald. This is usually a defrost drain tube issue. Thaw the drain area to clear the tube of built-up ice so water can freely flow into the drain pan. If you can’t clear the tube, it may need to be replaced. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
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I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal o
... Read morepens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
Open the door. Removed two screws holding the cover of the thermostat. There is a clip which holds the thermostat in place. Remove the clip. Take out the thermostat. Remove the thermocouple (the long grey metal with the coil at the end) which is also held in place by a clip. Replace with the new thermostat and thermocouple and clip i
... Read morento place. Replace the screws to the cover. Close the door.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
