This is a replacement dishrack roller or wheel for your dishwasher. It is made of gray plastic, measures a little over an inch in diameter, and is sold individually. This roller is designed for the lo...
This part is a replacement tine row clip for your dishwasher. The tine row clip is adjustable, and it fits onto your dishrack to holds the tines into place. If your dishrack tine rows will not stay in...
This micro filter is a genuine OEM replacement part that is compatible with dishwashers. Its primary function is to catch and trap small particles of food, debris, and other contaminants that may be p...
This seal is also referred to as a door gasket, and it is designed for use on dishwashers. It is installed on the door of the appliance, and it seals the space between the tub of the dishwasher and th...
This is a door handle, which is is installed at the top of your dishwasher door and allows you to open and close it. However, if this part is missing or broken, the opening and closing your dishwasher...
This OEM upper spray arm is sourced directly from the manufacturer for use in various models of dishwasher. It is responsible for spraying water onto the dishes that are placed in the top rack. It is ...
This water access valve, also known as a water inlet valve, is an authentic OEM replacement part used in dishwashers. The valve controls the flow of water into the dishwasher. It is responsible for al...
The E:15 error code means water is detected in the pan under the unit. There are several ways this can happen.
In this case, it was caused by a bad inlet valve. It did not close properly and led to an overflow of water inside that eventually spilled into the pan underneath the unit.
I see now why the pump keeps run
... Read morening after this error. In this case, it would have led to a big flood in the kitchen if it did not.
I was actually able to run the unit while broke by manually operating the valve under our sink that provides water to the unit.
Be sure to turn off breaker before servicing. Don't get shocked!
Be sure to turn off water before starting! Or, you'll have a flood.
Anyway, I just pulled the unit out (was secured by 2 screws on the sides). I lifted up the insulation material on the left side to get at the valve. Pushed a little green tab to release the electrical plug. Then, use pliers to move clamp off the white water hose on the inside. Then, pull of white hose. This was hard in my case. Took a lot of force. Then, reach behind the unit and use pliers to unscrew water hose. Now, the whole gray panel there can pop out with some force. Then, slip the old valve out and slip new one in. Reconnect hoses and clamp. Note that I put some caulk on the connector where white hose goes. Not sure if needed or not.
I removed the 3 #20 torn screws in the handle, and the six #20 tore screws inside the door that hold the outer door skin in place.
The plastic handle has a series of molded hooks that allow it to snap into the stainless steel skin.
To avoid damaging the skin, use a utility knife to cut behind the two large hooks o
... Read moren the bottom of the handle and the one on each end. One trimmed, the handle easily slides out of the door skin.
The new one will effortlessly snap in-place, then reposition the door skin and fasten with the 9 screw previously removed.