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SCE30500W
SCE30500W Jenn-Air Range - Overview
Sections of the SCE30500W
[Viewing 7 of 7]
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Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.73
In Stock
Long Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS1570174
Manufacturer #: 12001656
This long oven sensor is also commonly known as a temperature sensor. It is designed for use with ovens and ranges. It is similar to a thermostat; it measures and regulates the internal temperature of...
$34.75
In Stock
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$5.42
In Stock
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
PartSelect #: PS12347301
Manufacturer #: W11120791
This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, controls and regulates the heat output of the burners on a stovetop. The user simply adjusts the knob on the user interface panel, which i...
$90.92
In Stock
Bake Element - 240V
PartSelect #: PS11743855
Manufacturer #: WP71001680
The element has male terminals. This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven.
$92.60
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
PartSelect #: PS971245
Manufacturer #: 4396923
This is cookware designed for use in your range or oven. It is a two-piece dish that is used to grill or cook food while the broil function is on, meaning it can withstand high temperatures. This set ...
$37.51
In Stock
Dual Surface Burner Switch Kit
PartSelect #: PS2003583
Manufacturer #: 12002125
This switch is used to operate the dual surface burner.
$89.03
In Stock
Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS11751911
Manufacturer #: WPW10282527
The oven rack provides a stable surface for cookware inside the oven. Sold individually.
$85.22
In Stock
6 Inch Element with Limiter
PartSelect #: PS11764912
Manufacturer #: W10823704
This element can be used for the left front or right rear.
$268.43
In Stock
Light Cover Lens
PartSelect #: PS11747414
Manufacturer #: WP9781049
The light cover lens in your oven is designed to protect the light bulb. If your light cover lens is damaged, you will need to replace it. This part is made of clear glass and is roughly 3 inches in d...
$64.44
In Stock
SEAL- DOOR
PartSelect #: PS11743859
Manufacturer #: WP71001841
This oven door gasket prevents heat from escaping the oven cavity when in use. This is a very easy repair that should only take a few minutes. The door gasket may damage or rip over time due to repeat...
$102.70
In Stock
Broil Element
PartSelect #: PS11752538
Manufacturer #: WPW10310260
This broil element is found on the roof of the oven.
$150.17
In Stock
Questions And Answers for SCE30500W
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Common Symptoms of the SCE30500W
[Viewing 10 of 10]Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Oven is too hot
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Oven not heating evenly
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Will Not Start
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Touchpad does not respond
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Will not program
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening,
... Read more
reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
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Parts Used:
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David from Westford, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
156 of 196 people
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Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
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Parts Used:
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Michael from Collierville, TN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
137 of 178 people
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Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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Parts Used:
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James H from Oxford, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
105 of 119 people
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