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RT18BMXVW10 Roper Refrigerator - Overview

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Icemaker Control Assembly – Part Number: W10190935
$70.95
In Stock
Icemaker Control Assembly
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(31)
Part #W10190935
The “Icemaker Control Assembly” (Module & Motor Assembly, Ice Maker Control Module, Icemaker Module, Refrigerator Ice Maker Module) is what controls the actions of your ice maker. The control turns the timing cams and the ejector blades. It controls most of the basic parts and functions such as the heater, water inlet valve, the cube size, and cube ejection. If your ice maker control is broken it can no longer properly control the ice maker functions. It may not produce any ice, make small ice cubes, or have intermittent operation. This can occur due to normal wear and tear. The icemaker control assembly is attached to the ice maker mold, and is under the white cover. Test the icemaker control assembly by using a multimeter. If this reveals the assembly to be defective, you will need to replace this part. It is approximately 4.25 inches square, beige, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This replacement part features one icemaker control assembly, including the control module and the motor.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: W10822278
$34.74
In Stock
Defrost Timer
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(40)
Part #W10822278
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This part is located inside of the control housing on most models, and is approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. This part is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white. It features 1 defrost timer, along with all necessary mounting hardware and installation instructions
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$30.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
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(95)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Refrigerator Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
$45.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Capacitor
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(44)
Part #WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty the compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$34.74
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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Part #WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator does not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
Ice Maker Water Fill Tube Kit – Part Number: WP2196157
$18.65
In Stock
Ice Maker Water Fill Tube Kit
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(27)
Part #WP2196157
The icemaker water fill tube provides water to the icemaker so it can produce ice and dispense water. If you notice that your ice maker is not making or dispensing ice, or is leaking, you may need to replace the water fill tube. This water fill tube kit comes with a fill tube and a compression nut. This part is made of white plastic and is approximately 10 inches in length. The ice maker water fill tube is in the rear of the fridge. To complete this repair, you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a utility knife. Before beginning this repair, you may want to disconnect the water and power supply to the refrigerator.
Shelf Stud – Part Number: W11581579
No Longer Available
Shelf Stud
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Part #W11581579
This is a 6 piece kit.
Refrigerator Water Fill Cup & Bearing – Part Number: WP628356
$35.80
In Stock
Refrigerator Water Fill Cup & Bearing
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(10)
Part #WP628356
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, or not making/dispensing ice. If you notice the fill cup has been damaged or cracked; replace the part straight away. This water fill cup is a genuine OEM part and will fit most refrigerators, but check the list of compatible brands to make sure yours is included before purchasing.
Single Outlet Water Valve Kit – Part Number: 4318047
$47.40
In Stock
Single Outlet Water Valve Kit
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(16)
Part #4318047
This part is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When the water inlet valve is turned on, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold. The kit includes the mounting hardware and bracket plastic tubing fittings. The retaining nut must be cut off the plastic water line and gently pushed into the new valve. To remove, press down on the ring that the tube slides into. Refer to the installation instructions for further guidance. Please note: the manufacturer has redesigned this part and it can appear different than the original. It has a new quick connection.
Water Tube Kit – Part Number: W10823511
$27.36
In Stock
Water Tube Kit
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★★★★★
(8)
Part #W10823511
This is the replacement water tube kit for your refrigerator. This tubing is made of plastic, is 1/4 inch in diameter, and comes with 2 inserts. This tube may be longer than the original tube, and may need to be cut. This water tube transports water to the ice and water dispensers. If your refrigerator is leaking, or if the ice and water dispensers are not dispensing properly, you may need to replace this tube. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit – Part Number: 482731
$69.91
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
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(24)
Part #482731
The evaporator is found in the back of the freezer. This kit comes with two mounting grommets, two sleeves (not to be used on porcelain models), two #8 mounting screws, and a push-on fan blade. If you are experiencing symptoms such as the fridge making loud noises (generally stemming from the freezer compartment), or the fridge/freezer feeling warm in temperature, this may indicate a need to replace your evaporator fan motor. This part pulls air into the evaporator coils and then disperses the air in a continuous motion throughout the refrigerator and freezer. NOTE: NO LONGER ABLE TO GET BRACKETS. SEE PART INSTRUCTIONS IN SERVICE MATTERS INSTRUCT SHEET# W11500157 11/20KC.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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Part #72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.

Common Symptoms of the RT18BMXVW10

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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No ice
567 of 688 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Suwanee, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
441 of 556 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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