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Model Number Locations
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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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Model has been saved to My Models.
If your element will not heat, there could be an issue with your drip bowl. This chrome drip bowl is 8 inches in diameter, and fits most electric ranges. Before you replace the drip bowl, make sure th...
The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to...
The surface burner or element on your range provides the heat that you cook with. If your element will not heat, you may need to replace the surface burner. This surface burner is 8 inches in diameter...
This is a delta frame surface unit, also known as coil element, for a stove, range, or oven. It is a 6-inch surface burner with a reinforced delta frame that carries 1250 watts and 240 volts. The burn...
This Whirlpool BEZEL-KNOB is a genuine OEM part compatible with various models of the same brand. Designed for ranges, it functions as the surface burner knob bezel. This vital component attaches behi...
This is a five-loop broil element for an oven, range, or stove. It is approximately 11-3/4 inches wide and 18-5/8 inches long with approximately 11-3/4 inches between terminal connections. It features...
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap
... Read more. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I
... Read moreplaced the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
I removed (2) mounting screws from the back of the oven and pulled the element out far enough to access the terminal lugs. I unplugged the old element and plugged in the new element. I also replaced the old mounting screws w/new hardware and replaced one of the terminal lugs on a damaged wire. I went ahead and replaced the broiler elem
... Read moreent at the same time (also only 2 screws on the top of the oven) although there was no indication of a problem. The process was very easy although I caution non-electrically skilled people to insure the power is off at the breaker panel when performing this work and, if the electrical wires are damaged, seek qualified assistance to repair them.
