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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
PVM1970SR1SS General Electric Microwave - Overview
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This is a replacement grease filter for your microwave. Sometimes known as the air filter, this part fits underneath your microwave and catches grease. As a result, your grease filter can become clogg...
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates w...
The microwave glass light lens protects the light bulb inside the appliance. It is clear in color and measures approximately 6-1/2 inches long, and 2-1/2 inches wide. You may notice that this part is ...
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Rem...
Ensure the secure installation of your GE microwave with this effective mounting bolt. Designed by esteemed manufacturer GE, this handy microwave part ensures your appliance remains firmly in place wi...
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15 questions answered by our experts.
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Shel
January 4, 2020
In oven light out, where is light? What is recommended replacement?
For model number PVM1970SR1SS
Hello Shel and thank you for writing.
Halogen light bulb PS651484. For your convenience, we have attached the link to your service manual. We hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.
https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/assets/manuals/38EFB574269CCE3CCC90A3447C0DFD34B8025176.pdf
Replaced turntable motor and the turntable still not turning
For model number PVM1970SR1SS
Hello Joe, Thank you for the question. This could be an issue with the Door Switch. We suggest testing the Monitor Door Switch and the Secondary Door Switch for continuity. We hope this helps!
When door is closed, the microwave continues to make a humming noise and then over heats and totally shuts down. What's the problem?
For model number PVM1970SR1SS
Hi Donald,
Thank you for your question. If the microwave is making a humming sound and it is overheating, this may mean that the magnetron is not working correctly. The magnetron is the part that creates the microwaves that cook the food. Before removing and testing this part with a multimeter for continuity, you will need to unplug the microwave from the electrical outlet, remove it from under the cabinet and discharge the high voltage capacitor. For safety reasons, since the microwave capacitor can still store electricity even when the microwave is unplugged, it is usually advised that you discharge the capacitor before any attempt at repair. Here is a link with information on how to discharge the capacitor, https://www.partselect.com/Microwave+discharge-capacitor+repair.htm. Once you have completed this, set your multimeter to Rx1, touch one probe to a terminal and the other to the metal housing of the magnetron, this test should indicate that there isn’t continuity. Next, touch both probes to the terminals, this should produce a reading of two to three ohms. If your test results differ from the above, you will need a replacement magnetron. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.
Microwave has power and panel board shows everything ,but if you set to express the number count down but the microwave is not heating on the inside …
For model number PVM1970SR1SS
Hello Michael, Thank you for the question. If everything is working but not producing heat, we suggest testing the Diode and Magnetron. If you have a multi meter you can test them. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. You will have to make sure that the appliance is unplugged before starting your repair. Be aware that the high voltage capacitor in your appliance may still retain a charge even after being unplugged. We hope this helps!
Key pad is failing. Cleaned ribbon but the 3 and 4 still do not respond. All other selections are operational. Do I need to replace the control panel? What is the correct part # ?
For model number PVM1970SR1SS
Hello Gary, thank you for your inquiry. According to our research, you may need to replace the control panel, part number PS3510583. We hope this solves your problem!
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
... Read more this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the
... Read moreswitches when the door is opened and closed.
If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.
The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.
