PP975WM1WW General Electric Cooktop - Overview
Sections of the PP975WM1WW
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Screw
PartSelect #: PS271689
Manufacturer #: WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
$15.68
In Stock
Tape
PartSelect #: PS227306
Manufacturer #: WB06T10007
This roll contains 108 inches of tape.
$50.42
In Stock
BOARD POWER UNIV Assembly
PartSelect #: PS1481066
Manufacturer #: WB23T10023
Introducing the GE brand universal power board assembly, a crucial component for maintaining the perfect heat levels on your cooktop. This top-quality board controls the heating of your surface elemen...
$321.70
In Stock
Haliant Element - 12 Inch
PartSelect #: PS955017
Manufacturer #: WB30T10096
Introduce the GE Haliant Element - a vital component designed for your range. This 12-inch surface element is crafted to supply seamless heat to the cooking area, enhancing your stove's performance. P...
$216.71
In Stock
Relay Board
PartSelect #: PS1481205
Manufacturer #: WB27T10891
Perfect for maintaining optimal performance of your GE cooktop, the Daughter Relay Board operates relays to effectively regulate the burners. Constructed with precision from durable materials, this pa...
$118.18
In Stock
HEATING ELEMENT REPLACMENT KIT
PartSelect #: PS16729057
Manufacturer #: WB30X44066
$170.85
Special Order
Manuals & Care Guides for PP975WM1WW
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Installation Instructions
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Installation Instructions
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Manual
Owner's Manuals
(1.55MB)
Questions And Answers for PP975WM1WW
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Common Symptoms of the PP975WM1WW
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Lightning strike blew out my GE cooktop
Wife said cooktop was not working. I cut power and dropped the cover on the electronics box under the burners and could see it was burnt up. Looked like it would be hard to fix so I ordered a new cooktop. However, they couldn't place order until they measured - and that would not be for a week. So, I thought I would order the circuit
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board to see if I could replace it. Parts Select had good links to appliance parts so ordering was easy. Needed help to pull out the cooktop and flip it over but switching in the new board was relatively easy although there were lots of connectors to keep straight. Turned it on and it worked like new and cancelled order. Saved $1300 and was a hero.
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Parts Used:
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Stephen from LAUREL, MD
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Cooktop kept clicking, going on and off when cooking.
Turned the circuit breaker off to ensure no power to the cooktop. Cleared all items in cabinet before accessing the control box where the board power univ. assembly was. 1/4" sock to back off six screws. Took many pictures of the unit inside. Orientation, color of wires, where zip ties are as you will have to cut them in order to disconne
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ct the cable connections and where plugs we connected and direction.
Pulled box down and disconnected two green grounding cables using a 1/4" socket, again taking pictures to ensure I place the cables in the exact position as it is a tight fit. Unplugged cable connections (be careful as they are tough to disconnect from the bottom of the cooktop) and noted direction and orientation of wires to ensure the new board went int the exact same way. Squeezed the post clips that held the board the backplate.
Installed new board, pushing the post clips back in) be careful not to break them as they are made of plastic and can be broken easily. Reconnected cable connections and reinstalled the zip ties to ensure no cable are pinched when you place the board housing back in place. Reconnected the two grounding cables and ensure they go in the right direction as it is a tight fit in the box assembly. Now this was the hard part.
Putting the board housing back in place and lining up the holes for the six screws. This took some time to do as the new cable wires are new and a little stiff. Had to ensure that no wires were pinched and the cardboard walls where in the right place. Finally, was able to line up one hole a drive home the screw. From there I was able to use gentle force to line up the rest of the holes.
Once that was done and I checked the no wires were protruding out; I cleared out my tools and turned the circuit breaker back on. I tested each setting on the cook top and turned all burners on at the same time. Problem solved and with solid results. Cooktop now working very well and no issues.
Pulled box down and disconnected two green grounding cables using a 1/4" socket, again taking pictures to ensure I place the cables in the exact position as it is a tight fit. Unplugged cable connections (be careful as they are tough to disconnect from the bottom of the cooktop) and noted direction and orientation of wires to ensure the new board went int the exact same way. Squeezed the post clips that held the board the backplate.
Installed new board, pushing the post clips back in) be careful not to break them as they are made of plastic and can be broken easily. Reconnected cable connections and reinstalled the zip ties to ensure no cable are pinched when you place the board housing back in place. Reconnected the two grounding cables and ensure they go in the right direction as it is a tight fit in the box assembly. Now this was the hard part.
Putting the board housing back in place and lining up the holes for the six screws. This took some time to do as the new cable wires are new and a little stiff. Had to ensure that no wires were pinched and the cardboard walls where in the right place. Finally, was able to line up one hole a drive home the screw. From there I was able to use gentle force to line up the rest of the holes.
Once that was done and I checked the no wires were protruding out; I cleared out my tools and turned the circuit breaker back on. I tested each setting on the cook top and turned all burners on at the same time. Problem solved and with solid results. Cooktop now working very well and no issues.
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Parts Used:
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Roman from FORT MYERS, FL
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Stove Top Element Heat Varies
Removed stove top from counter, removed glass top by removing 10 phillps screws, removed control bracked, unplugged connectors(wires) on old control and plugged into the correct position on the new control, replace control on the bracket then reinstalled the stove top and placed the stove top back into counter.
Parts Used:
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William from Perryton, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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