This is the replacement fuel line 25 Inch for several OPE products that use small engines. The fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Over time, the fuel line can become badly clogged...
$6.62
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This fuel filter is for lawn and garden equipment engines.
Fuel filter cleans the fuel before it reaches the carburetor.
Work in a well-ventilated area when installing this part. Drain the fuel...
$4.99
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This part is the replacement tank/purge line for your outdoor power equipment. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The tank/purge line returns excess fuel from the carburetor to the ...
$6.21
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This primer bulb, also known as a purge bulb, is used to push more fuel from the fuel tank into the carburetor of your small engine equipment, to help the engine start easier. Over time and through ex...
$6.21
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The Fuel Line Fitting is a plastic part which attaches two pieces of fuel line together. If broken due to damage/fatigue, there may be a leak and the part must be replaced. Installation is rated as "E...
$4.99
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This genuine Spark Plug, RCJ8Y, is sold individually, comprised of steel and ceramic, and is white and silver in color. The function of the spark plug is to ignite a mixture of air and fuel in the com...
This part is the replacement fuel cap assembly for your chainsaw. It is made of black plastic and is sold individually. The fuel cap prevents fuel from spilling out of the chainsaw and prevents debris...
$6.21
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Also referred to as a Recoil Spring, this OEM replacement part is used to rewind the pull rope back into the starter housing. This Spring is sold individually, not as part of a kit or assembly, and is...
$6.21
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This is an authentic replacement carburetor which is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer for use with Craftsman chainsaws. The purpose of this part is to mix the air and the gas before the...
$52.31
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The OEM Mounting Bar Nut is a nut used to install a mounting bar to your machine. Installation requires a wrench set and socket set, and is rated as "Easy". This nut attaches to the chainbar studs.
$3.99
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1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines. 2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank. 3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa
... Read morell into the path of the new fuel lines installation. 4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor. 5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line. 6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary. 7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
Disassembled it and cleaned fuel tank. Cut and ran new fuel lines, installed filter and reassembled. Parts fit perfectly and got running after not running for over 20 years.
Replaced all fuel lines. Followed instructions found on Partselect.com, which said to insert cut fuel line in tank and use forceps to reach back in the tank and pull the fuel line through. The problem was that I did not have forceps, or needle nosed pliers that could reach the end of the hose.
Instead of running the line into
... Read morethe tank, I found another suggestion online to run the line from inside the tank outward, allowing me to grab the line with any pliers and thread it. The way I did this was used about a foot length of 14 gauge copper wire. Put an inch or two into the hose (that has been cut on an angle), and use a little black tape to secure the hose on the wire. Now you should be able to route the stiff wire from inside the tank to the fuel hole in the tank. Fish the wire through, and it should be enough to get the tapered end through the tank. Pull the copper wire, mine came out, but there was enough of the hose exposed on the outside of the tank for me to grab with pliers and pull it through.