PGP9830SR1SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

I removed the old igniter by working a thin screwdriver under the edge of the igniter, and carefully prying it up. I then used pliers to pull off the electrical wire. Connected up the new igniter, and pushed it back into the hole. A very simple repair.

I've replaced 2 igniters on this stove. My symptoms were that when I tried to light one of the bad burners I heard clicking, and could see the spark on the other (working) burners. So I knew the basic sparking function was working. Just that the igniter on the broken burner would not spark.

Pulled the old one out. Disconnected the wire. Repaired the frayed wire cover with Liquid Tape. Connected the wire. Inserted the new part into the hole. This is after installing a new spark module earlier. But that was dumb easy too. So for about $100 bucks in parts and an hour of my time I saved myself the appliance repairman money and agonizing scheduling and dealing with them for the price of gold. I also replaced all the gaskets on the burners in that time. It so easy even a financial planner could do it.

I removed the burner head #152 and the Burner Cap #330, no tools are needed to remove these items. I pulled the igniter up far enough to get to the wire, disconnected and connected the new igniter put it back in place, reassembled the two parts plugged it back in and turned it on and it worked.

The controls are on the glasstop and no way to access them from below, so the glass top has to be removed by removing any straps/braces from below and raising the rangetop housing above the counter height.

The foil tape connecting to the downdraft ductwork will need to be removed. Make sure you have foil tape to reseal this connection.

The black foam tape between the cooktop housing and the countertop will need to be separated with a putty knife. Be sure to have the 1/4” low density foam tape on hand for replacement.

Remove the 6 knobs by lifting them upward and then lift the housing above counter height.

The loosened housing can be supported by two pieces of 1x2 that straddle the opening. The sheet metal screws around the perimeter are easily removed and a putty knife under the glass should release the glass. Once the glass is removed, you’ll see an electrical control box with the 6 switches. The fan switch is held in place with two screws. The switch can then be accessed from the side and replaced. Just note the 4 colored wires and move them to the new switch. There’s a 5th contact that’s unused.

Reassembly is straightforward but you’ll need to remove any remaining foam tape, clean the underside and the countertop before applying the new tape.

Got ignitor and it did not have wire attached as shown in the picture of parts. However, all I did was take burner cap off, and gently life ignitor up and out, detach the wire, attach new ignitor to wire and reset.