NE6813 Dryer - Instructions

Remove front panel, lint basket, motor mounts,exhaust hood, front drum brackets. Then slip serpentine belt around drum, pressure w/ tension idler pulley and slip around drive motor spindle. Replace all parts in reverse order (a two person job).
Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.)

I removed the two spring clips that hold the pump and two wire spring clips that hold the hoses. Then I had to pry the pump off the shaft (it was frozen with rust). Then I cleaned the shaft with sandpaper and installed the new pump (which, by the way, came the next day, thank you very much) which made my wife very happy, and I thank you for that , too.

FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

We received the part we needed in a timely manner. First we took the back off the washer and found out later we didn't have to, because you can access the pump from the bottom of the Whirlpool washer and when we turned it on it's back a brass colored pin about 2" long fell out and we have no idea where it goes.Looking around the bottom frame we saw another pin in a plastic little cup mounted to the frame and another empty cup .So we changed the pump easy,put the pin in the empty cup and the washer runs great! That's our story.Still don't know what the pin is for,it's not on the parts schematic.

Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then replace the cover and put front panels back on.

I couldn't find any information on the internet on how to fix my dryer, so I took every screw out of it, which I later found was not needed - just 2 in the front. Then I had to figure out WHERE the element was. Turns out, against the back panel with 2 screws. I had to crawl on my belly to get in there with little room to work. Installing the new one didn't take long at all though. I also vacuumed out the inside and cleaned it well, then put all the screws back in it.

I'm glad I re-did all the screws because now it sounds brand new. It's 3 times quieter than it ever was (it was donated to me), and it feels great that I was able to fix it on my own for about $50.

1) Unplugged electrical cord
2) Removed hot/cold water hoses
3) Took drain hose from laundry room recepatcle
4) Moved washing machine to area where I could lay it down on its back (very important for easy fix)
5) Found (easy accessible in my case) water pump with an inlet and outlet water hose held on with spring clamps.
6) Removed each of the two clamps with pliers and each hose by twisting loose
7) Remove two metal clips holding pump to motor housing
8) Slide pump off shaft - removal is finished!
9) Reversed process for installation, making sure to gently align pump housing when the pump is aligned with the shaft
[probably took less than 15 minutes]

Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

I first unplugged the dryer (don't want to get nailed with 240 volts). I then removed the two screws on the bottom section of the dryer just below the door. I then removed the two screws on the front door assembly and removed the door (make sure you don't break the wires and/or door switch. The wires need to be removed from the door switch prior to removing the door panel completely). I then took a flash light and look inside the dryer towards the back. I could see the heating element in the back. I then removed the two screws holding the heat element and removed the heating element (taking note on the orientation of the element). I then removed the black and orange wires making note which wire fit on which terminal. I then compared the old unit with the new unit to make sure I had the right one. I then assembled the new heating element (heat sensors etc.). I then hooked the black and orange wire to the new element. I then reassembled everything in the reverse order.

Note: I very CAREFULLY used the heating elements support connectors to hold the element in place while I started my screws. Once they were started then I could release the element and fit it properly into the housing as I tightened the screws.

The other thing that you need to check is to make sure that the air-duct is not blocked. If you have a lot of lent on the bottom of the dyer (inside) then you could have a blocked air-duct. This happened to me. I went outside and noticed that we have a door on our vent that flips up to keep mice etc. from coming in. Some of the lint that was blown out got wet from the sprinklers and calcified underneath the vent. This was preventing the vent from opening. This could of been our problem all along but I had already replaced the heating element so I keep it as is.

PartSelect was wonderful. I was able to find my parts quickly and the turn around time was tremendous. I would buy from PartSelect again.

i removed the front panel of the dryer, two screws on the bottom. then removed the 2 screws on the heating element that was located in the back of the dryer. pulled out the heating element and tested the parts with my husband's electrical equipment. the fuse and thermostat were bad. replaced those two parts on the heating element, connected all the wires back and screwed it back in the dryer. it works like a brand new dryer.

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.

Actually this is kinda funny. I ordered the part and it arrived when I was out of town on business. My 20 year old daughter tipped the washer up on its end, and replaced the pump herself in less than 30 minutes. Her only complaint was that no one told her to block the washer up as it almost fell on her.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

First, I'm glad I found PartSelect. The previous posts for this repair told me exactly how to replace the pump: I unplugged the washer and moved it out away from the wall (did not need to disconnect water hoses). Then I tilted the washer back and propped it up so I could get underneath. Using pliers, slid hose clamps back and disconnected hoses from pump. Using a screwdriver, popped off two clips, top and bottom, that hold the pump in place. Pump then slides right off the shaft. Installation is the reverse. Make sure you align the shaft with the pump. Delivery of my part was FAST - ordered it and got it the next day!